tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-49176919406528864962024-02-19T02:52:51.415+00:00Food & Wine FindsFiona Becketthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12970779962455905201noreply@blogger.comBlogger167125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4917691940652886496.post-67191831651354294672012-05-10T15:07:00.002+01:002012-05-10T15:25:05.908+01:00Time to move on!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Since I've revamped my website <a href="http://matchingfoodandwine.com/">matchingfoodandwine.com</a> I've decided to rationalise my blogs and this one, I'm afraid, has become redundant.<br />
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Well, not quite. I might still put up the odd post on the food scene in Bristol or have the occasional rant but for my restaurant and book reviews you should check out the website and sign up, if you like, for the monthly newsletter which will have other news and tips about new products I've spotted (and on which I hope I can occasionally get you some kind of a discount. For UK readers, at least)<br />
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We'll also be having regular competitions on the site. There's a cracking one to kick off with* to celebrate the relaunch which gives you the chance to <a href="http://www.matchingfoodandwine.com/news/competition/win_a_case_of_roederer_champagne/" target="_blank">win a case of Louis Roederer champagne</a> so make sure to check that one out!<br />
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(*Until June 5th 2012).Fiona Becketthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12970779962455905201noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4917691940652886496.post-57045433901524992672012-04-22T11:34:00.002+01:002012-04-22T15:09:04.573+01:00Manna and Bravas<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Manna & Bravas may sound a bit like an upmarket deli (or a '70s pop duo) but these are in fact the names of two separate wine bars that have opened in Bristol in the last two weeks. And what a great addition they are to the Bristol restaurant scene.<br />
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<a href="http://www.bravas.co.uk/">Bravas</a> is the welcome consequence of the Bravas supperclub, which I never managed to get to, and is basically a tapas bar - a pretty authentic one at that. There are small circular tables at the front you have to perch at on stools, a glass-covered counter and some tightly packed tables at the back with - I vaguely remember - some fairy lights festooned around the place. I came straight there after a heavy couple of days in London so my recollection is a bit hazy.<br />
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There are typically tapas-y things to eat like lustrous fat green olives, a slightly over-gooey tortilla, chorizo in cider and excellent patatas bravas served, imaginatively, as deep-fried potato slices to be dunked in an accompanying punchy bravas sauce. One to try at home, definitely.<br />
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Other good dishes were some impeccably fresh, simply fried hake, a perfectly cooked lamb chop and some very tasty Iberico pork. But it’s the wine as much as anything I’d go back for - a brilliant short list of artisanal Spanish wines and, of course, sherries. I was off-duty with friends so didn’t take notes - or photographs - the light was too murky.
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I was going to go back before writing about it but last night happened to be the opening night of <a href="http://www.mannabar.co.uk/">Manna</a>, a similar set-up in the Westbury Park neighbourhood so it makes sense to group them together. It’s run by the team who operate the immensely successful Prego opposite but is in fact more like a restaurant with small plates - similar to <a href="http://www.flintyred.co.uk/">Flinty Red</a>, if you’re a Bristolian and familiar with that.<br />
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This kitchen obviously likes meat too. There was a first class slab of brawn, nicely seasoned with tarragon, a lovely sticky pice of veal cheek with what tasted like home-made morcilla (certainly I’ve never tasted morcilla with as much cumin in it) and some outrageously rare onglet lavishly scattered with grated horseradish - but served without chips to which I think they’ll have to succumb in the long run.<br />
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Other dishes sent out (unbidden, but thanks) included some beautifully tender chargrilled squid with a punchy salsa, ‘butifarra’ (Spanish-style meatballs) with beans and aioli and fresh peas in their pods with mature parmesan (pecorino would have been better, I think). Oh, and we also ordered a pissaladière which was correctly oniony rather than tomatoey. The winelist is pretty short but decent and there’s a good selection of beers including two from one of my favourite West Country brewers, Moor’s of Pitney in Somerset.<br />
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The interesting thing about the tapas/small plates format is that it’s not cheap, or not cheap if you’re as greedy as we are. At Manna we spent about £30 a head (excluding the complimentary dishes), at Bravas about £38, the same as a conventional meal. But you don’t have to spend that much - you could drop in for a glass and a couple of dishes. And this style of eating means a faster throughput than a conventional restaurant, hence more profit for the restaurant and a greater likelihood these places will be around for some time. All good news.<br />
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Which should you go to? It depends what part of Bristol you live in or whether you're just visiting. Bravas is more central with more of an urban vibe. Manna, on the basis of last night’s experience, attracts the sort of crowd you might find in a local village pub and is more of a neighbourhood joint. But I suspect it will pull in people from wider afield as the word gets out.<br />
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We’ll certainly be back to both.<br />
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Bravas is at 5 Cotham Hill. Open Tuesday-Saturday 5-11pm <a href="http://www.bravas.co.uk/">www.bravas.co.uk</a>
Manna is at 28 North View, Westbury Park, BS6 7QB <a href="http://www.mannabar.co.uk/">www.mannabar.co.uk</a> Check the opening hours 0117 970 6276Fiona Becketthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12970779962455905201noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4917691940652886496.post-69567441743800692812012-04-06T11:28:00.000+01:002012-04-06T18:17:58.732+01:00A tale of two restaurants: why good food is not enough<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvWTAdNOMG1cBd1MM55wUZWdR5VbXx24EpbA33djGdyW_YBEqMegQorWOdeMUotWJPqn3y4fu8WPhzrrl0P5n84wi2tbqlDLPPDzk536ryecGYFQAVxjaQ3qqOS5LF7MnNmOlG937l5V8/s1600/casamia+menus.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear:right; float:right; margin-left:1em; margin-bottom:1em"><img border="0" height="320" width="261" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvWTAdNOMG1cBd1MM55wUZWdR5VbXx24EpbA33djGdyW_YBEqMegQorWOdeMUotWJPqn3y4fu8WPhzrrl0P5n84wi2tbqlDLPPDzk536ryecGYFQAVxjaQ3qqOS5LF7MnNmOlG937l5V8/s320/casamia+menus.jpg" /></a></div>I’ve had two meals recently, one in Bristol, one in Bath that have underlined why ability in the kitchen doesn’t necessarily make for an enjoyable restaurant experience. Of course you need good food but there are so many other factors - design, location, service and above all, good old-fashioned hospitality that determine whether you leave looking forward to going back again.<br>
<br>Telling your customers that their credit card will be docked £68 <i>per person</i> if they cancel within 48 hours (if they can’t resell the table) isn’t a good start. Which is what happens when you book at <a href="http://www.casamiarestaurant.co.uk/">Casamia</a> in Bristol. The two chefs Peter and Jonray Sanchez-Iglesias shot to fame a year or so ago when they won Gordon Ramsay’s Best Restaurant competition on Channel 4 and the pair are undoubtedly talented but that kind of attitude doesn’t make for a cossetting experience.<br>
<br>Nor does their inflexibility. Given the fact they had a no-choice menu we’d been asked to express dietary preferences (no dairy, in my husband’s case) so with the exception of the last course where they provided a rhubarb sorbet they simply left out the offending ingredients. My broad bean tart was a delicious creamy mouthful. His was a tart shell with a few skinned broad beans. My John Dory with lemon jelly (lovely and the best course on the menu) arrived with a creamy cider sauce, his was totally undressed. It was as if the kitchen were saying ‘oh FFS’.<br>
<br>You got that sensation a bit too with the main course of roast lamb with mint jelly which came with a spookily Bisto-ish gravy (not that I'm suggesting for a moment it was). The boys, I remember from my one previous visit, used to go in for foams and other elements of Heston-esque molecular gastronomy. Obviously that didn’t go down too well with the locals so they seem to be saying ‘you want a roast dinner? We’ll bloody give you one’. The lamb was cooked at a fashionably slow temperature, granted, but to be honest my late mum cooked a better roast dinner than that. And she served potatoes which were notably absent, replaced by an ‘onion and garlic family’ of crunchy, undercooked spring onions and leeks.<br>
<br>Obviously the Sanchez-Iglesias brothers don’t approve of carbs. Or fat. Which is praiseworthy and I’m sure they’re the fitter for it but if your customer asks for some bread as we tentatively did, “no I’m sorry we don’t have any” is not a good response. Nor is a powdery, fat-free (I would guess), granola-style topping with undercooked rhubarb going to satisfy someone who spots rhubarb crumble on the menu.<br>
<br>The minimum you can spend on food in Casamia is £45. On a Friday or Saturday night the menu is £68 or £88 - or 88 sterling pounds as they irritatingly put it - with an extra £40 or £55 respectively for an accompanying wine flight. With service, water and coffee that could easily top £250 for two - a lot to pay for a restaurant without views in a suburban shopping parade.<br>
<br>There are similar problems at <a href="http://www.menugordonjones.co.uk/">Menu Gordon Jones</a>, the bizarrely named new restaurant in what looks like a converted estate agent's on the corner of the busy A367 on the outskirts of Bath. Like the Sanchez-Iglesias brothers the eponymous chef has an impressive pedigree (Martin Wishart, Martin Blunos and The Royal Crescent) but only offers a ‘surprise’ no choice 5 course menu. At least it included some delicious and imaginative red cabbage and caraway bread though that appeared to be one of the courses. And the asparagus soup was as good as any I've had. But serving ox cheek and then reverting to fish is a disorienting experience and plays havoc with with your wine choice. And with just one other table (the place only has 14 covers) it lacked any real warmth or atmosphere. Although they only charge £25 for lunch, which is a bargain for the quality of food they offer, I wouldn't go back.<br>
<br>Obviously the economic situation is tough for new start-ups but in their desire to express themselves it’s as if these chefs have lost sight of what a restaurant experience should be. OK, they spring a surprise menu on you at Noma but Noma is Noma with one of the most talented chefs and brigades in the world and the food is not only cutting-edge but delicious.<br>
<br>The main problem is that none of these chefs has grasped the importance of a stylish (though not necessarily expensively fitted-out) interior and a warm and welcoming reception which is what separates successful restaurants from merely good ones. Compare this with the recently opened <a href="http://dabbous.co.uk/">Dabbous</a> whose eponymous restaurant works like clockwork. Or Ollie Couillaud’s <a href="http://www.thelawnbistro.co.uk/">Lawn Bistro</a> in Wimbledon which is casual, friendly but with no lack of culinary fireworks. It's a shame.<br>
<i><br>What do you think of no choice or surprise menus? And is it fair for restaurants to charge for no-shows - a growing problem for the industry?<br></i>Fiona Becketthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12970779962455905201noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4917691940652886496.post-69533811939477378182012-03-16T08:32:00.018+00:002012-03-16T17:14:20.257+00:005 reasons why the River Cafe is still one of London's best restaurants<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9bd0U3Dpntjs3jJbZytEzsju46AaL6MfZwjY2InaPcG6A-1b8nzEMryPZqwzTt7o2XjsUEa3Z9gHIFg2FlRJoVe1AWe12qM9zbrPNTOdPYbB-tAFBJ6CTUeH1HxWdcKyTKQZ_JrIg0Zo/s1600/bread+and+olive+oil.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9bd0U3Dpntjs3jJbZytEzsju46AaL6MfZwjY2InaPcG6A-1b8nzEMryPZqwzTt7o2XjsUEa3Z9gHIFg2FlRJoVe1AWe12qM9zbrPNTOdPYbB-tAFBJ6CTUeH1HxWdcKyTKQZ_JrIg0Zo/s320/bread+and+olive+oil.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5720422380687005842" /></a><br />I had lunch at <a href="http://www.rivercafe.co.uk/rc_page.php">The River Café</a> this week. I wouldn't normally say that because I find it hard to justify spending that amount of money on a meal but this month (and during late January and February for future reference) they have a winter set lunch offer where you can get 2 courses for £25 and £35 for four. Normally a main course alone will set you back £32-£36<br /><br />Admittedly it was helped by the fact that it was the most stunning spring day but in every other respect the meal was faultless in ways that explain just why this iconic restaurant still pulls in the crowds.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxCNLJdm0Pi-scb0MIJ4jsmNBwja8K_bMoxO3g5Ny5KrarVwGgh-8Ni0ngBnX5kRxqdxnby6C8LJMAWuHXPG8OxqooxLfNBjkjWQTrAtvhRIz1tbCfTEEdiP3tbd9NJyYQa9ZSTebqMpo/s1600/River+Cafe+interior.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxCNLJdm0Pi-scb0MIJ4jsmNBwja8K_bMoxO3g5Ny5KrarVwGgh-8Ni0ngBnX5kRxqdxnby6C8LJMAWuHXPG8OxqooxLfNBjkjWQTrAtvhRIz1tbCfTEEdiP3tbd9NJyYQa9ZSTebqMpo/s320/River+Cafe+interior.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5720422857819354498" /></a><br />* First it's a beautiful, beautiful space with a whole wall of glass that pours in the light. The wood-fired oven is clearly visible at one end, the gleaming stainless steel counter, topped with ingredients runs the whole length of the room on the other side. It's a big restaurant that feels like a small one. And one that looks as cutting edge in 2012 as it did when it opened in 1987.<br /><br />* The service is great. Friendly, attentive, informed. The waiters have to do stints in the kitchen prepping ingredients so they really understand the food <br /><br />* The ingredients are top notch. You won't get better anywhere in London. And always reflect the seasons<br /><br />* The cooking makes no attempt to disguise them. No cheffy egos here. No teetering towers of ingredients, no drizzles, no foams. <br /><br />* The all-Italian wine list is amazing with treats at every price level. Not super-cheap, obviously but you can buy a bottle for £24-26<br /><br />So what did we eat and drink? Well, apart from the superb piece of grilled bread and olive oil that arrived just after we sat down my daugher and I had:<br /><br />Mozzarella di bufala with smashed chickpeas, wood-roasted artichokes and erbette (lightly cooked greens) (daughter)<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0kyINwBo2cKQdCjgdNIdjr7JPd4RZneEBqN77smZfI5Qoe4_H8XwtX6r9eCJG_ehHHzmX4mdv7vQm3g18atQQm9SsLSxnVftkUMlsD82ZWx0FwuBWZ6Dh5aHSwKE7qr_5OJm7eBBXZx8/s1600/mozzarella+and+artichokes+2.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0kyINwBo2cKQdCjgdNIdjr7JPd4RZneEBqN77smZfI5Qoe4_H8XwtX6r9eCJG_ehHHzmX4mdv7vQm3g18atQQm9SsLSxnVftkUMlsD82ZWx0FwuBWZ6Dh5aHSwKE7qr_5OJm7eBBXZx8/s320/mozzarella+and+artichokes+2.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5720421501584220066" /></a><br />Spaghetti with red mullet, tomato, olives, capers, parsley and lemon zest - a light summery dish that suited the unseasonally warm weather perfectly (me)<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvov7QyMu3AtSdTrMzBNAaGetHc2kDfTC8ep6UHMH5BPv2UQwW67TVszn_140AAz-tVr9J-opT-O_P04zCqEgWF5Bd_cQLUP9Tckw20krQmuo373FnXCc9ar7YN-sE-Xfwhc3f1c2tHAQ/s1600/spaghetti+with+red+mullet.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvov7QyMu3AtSdTrMzBNAaGetHc2kDfTC8ep6UHMH5BPv2UQwW67TVszn_140AAz-tVr9J-opT-O_P04zCqEgWF5Bd_cQLUP9Tckw20krQmuo373FnXCc9ar7YN-sE-Xfwhc3f1c2tHAQ/s320/spaghetti+with+red+mullet.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5720423218973647042" /></a><br /><br />Capesante e vongole - a heavenly dish of clams and scallops with soft polenta, chilli lemon and parsley (me, thank goodness. I'd have been thoroughly fed up if it had been hers)<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDDF1dfb0pDCm5D7xZPMp_8t1iSovta-U3B0n6Ob8Da4E5Z6kK6YXIBooW7KJdylwtEpgIZZGZMVCwyGY4swzWHZtyKQKnFlqMmZovsESZA2J44aJ9mliLzAkSEM4uYXRTdj0rueZbjAg/s1600/scallops+and+clams.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDDF1dfb0pDCm5D7xZPMp_8t1iSovta-U3B0n6Ob8Da4E5Z6kK6YXIBooW7KJdylwtEpgIZZGZMVCwyGY4swzWHZtyKQKnFlqMmZovsESZA2J44aJ9mliLzAkSEM4uYXRTdj0rueZbjAg/s320/scallops+and+clams.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5720424224693544290" /></a><br />Controfilleto di manzo - chargrilled beef sirloin with borlotti beens and fresh horseradish (which my daughter found a little fiery) Not a great pic of this so I'll skip it.<br /><br />A prettily presented plate of San Andrea cheese and flatbreads (me)<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWcgRMak-TyTguzTcrS0rChPIe8_7aR_5xbklEsQXvLZSefp7WE-gS6DleDlHQDnvEI7wLMJ1hP1J_Er_RJYoaU1IRhyphenhyphenarhyphenhyphen-xAPOpj61t-o103VByElPDyDHTNJItb-WQnYGMtu0zSkA/s1600/San+Andrea+cheese+plate.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWcgRMak-TyTguzTcrS0rChPIe8_7aR_5xbklEsQXvLZSefp7WE-gS6DleDlHQDnvEI7wLMJ1hP1J_Er_RJYoaU1IRhyphenhyphenarhyphenhyphen-xAPOpj61t-o103VByElPDyDHTNJItb-WQnYGMtu0zSkA/s320/San+Andrea+cheese+plate.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5720429513917846578" /></a><br />A decadently rich 'pressed' chocolate cake and ice cream (for the chocoholic daughter who was even defeated by it)<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSYodnBVtPFjK0O52ld1i2nriAlAIyxxakGWGXKQXZEzA0f54vzreAa-Ie3s91wgyF0ORPmXOAvC-0JjGxElA43sxQpKtNpVOJ_LIqNuvcOGLpHjszXd1vJ_J7RrnqmNScKtGsvsqOsUM/s1600/chocolate+cake+and+ice+cream.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSYodnBVtPFjK0O52ld1i2nriAlAIyxxakGWGXKQXZEzA0f54vzreAa-Ie3s91wgyF0ORPmXOAvC-0JjGxElA43sxQpKtNpVOJ_LIqNuvcOGLpHjszXd1vJ_J7RrnqmNScKtGsvsqOsUM/s320/chocolate+cake+and+ice+cream.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5720429919366023570" /></a><br />My daughter doesn't drink but I had a glass of Frascati out of curiosity - a deliciously fruity Castel de Paolis 2010 (£7.50) and a glass of bright, vibrant Luigi Maffini Refosco from Friuli (£8.50). 175ml glasses, not a fortune. <br /><br />So what can you do if you have a River Cafe habit without a budget to match? Have an antipasto and a pasta or risotto. Granted, that will set you back around £35 and that's still not cheap but it's affordable. And you know, when I think about it, the top Michelin-starred restaurants think nothing of charging a hundred quid for a meal. Why shouldn't the River Café when their food is as good and probably more expensively sourced? Go. <br /><br />Oh, and just in case you wondered after such an unrestrained eulogy, we paid our own bill. Which came to £92.56Fiona Becketthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12970779962455905201noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4917691940652886496.post-85632113535337952852012-02-27T20:20:00.009+00:002012-02-27T21:19:32.439+00:00London restaurant miscellany<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiezMWsF8ytlldpLcxEZN4WNwn17Jmw3IDJ6wQMj6Ad2MlFsFF04ztjgXcwv4Z_i88tYHXOTC8pt5gRYevzlLuLqIr-7vSH8TrdcyVHPR1cEX_und6XtDcwWY-DZdJHNVtx2kpU8IHcIEA/s1600/steak+tartare+angelus.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiezMWsF8ytlldpLcxEZN4WNwn17Jmw3IDJ6wQMj6Ad2MlFsFF04ztjgXcwv4Z_i88tYHXOTC8pt5gRYevzlLuLqIr-7vSH8TrdcyVHPR1cEX_und6XtDcwWY-DZdJHNVtx2kpU8IHcIEA/s320/steak+tartare+angelus.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5713922876707745426" /></a><br />I keep on stumbling across odd developments on the London restaurant scene I mean to blog about and never get round to so I'm going to jam them all into one post.<br /><br />All-day brunch at <a href="http://www.angelusrestaurant.co.uk/">Angelus</a><br />A brilliant move from a long-standing favourite in Lancaster Gate, run by ex-sommelier Thierry Thomasin. You can eat breakfast all day on a Sunday. I discovered this recently when I was staying nearby because of an early Monday morning meeting. We went to eat at 8.30pm and found we could have a full English. There's also an omelette menu and the best steak tartare (above) I think I've eaten, hand-chopped, beautifully seasoned and, dare I say, <span style="font-style:italic;">even better than Racine's</span>. Served with a generous portion of excellent chips so you don't really need to order extra ones with the omelette. Amazing winelist too. An overlooked gem.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv1am0kFOzGw3vdqJgj-K7DURCGz14b6C6cazcoRO1BZvtUyk2pem4aX36IHD4I-tPgBSrYNTivK60nZrWyzkfbbgPfkzet6RV_ApqlDF_wHFpphfxlLOXtMkAlFh3Asx2sgLR8IUqU-c/s1600/Pitt+Cue+ribs.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv1am0kFOzGw3vdqJgj-K7DURCGz14b6C6cazcoRO1BZvtUyk2pem4aX36IHD4I-tPgBSrYNTivK60nZrWyzkfbbgPfkzet6RV_ApqlDF_wHFpphfxlLOXtMkAlFh3Asx2sgLR8IUqU-c/s320/Pitt+Cue+ribs.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5713923960055146946" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Ribs at <a href="http://www.pittcue.co.uk/">Pitt Cue Co</a></span><br />The entire blogosphere has raved about this southern-style barbecue joint so there's not a great deal to add except to say that the ribs live up to the hype. I think I like the St Louis pork ribs <span style="font-style:italic;">marginally</span> better than the beef ones - there are also superb chicken wings, home-made pickles and a side of mash with burnt ends - which is basically mash with gravy and leftover bits of roast meat. Mmmmm. For a more measured, coherent but equally enthusiastic assessment read Jay Rayner's review <a href="http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/2012/feb/12/jay-rayner-restaurant-pitt-cue">here</a>.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyI5HQyKr3RMgRP4v3OvW8Zvc0uhAPZAg6WkpsZz4QGDK4gzv3En3sMlf6El2bwWjjIp5-VOyEyAnjpraiKLFaGXrRlvLy1lduN0a5sNnbJgCzDdOTkiiIgGzBlR4LU7eEhHx_oQHtzUA/s1600/mash+with+truffles.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyI5HQyKr3RMgRP4v3OvW8Zvc0uhAPZAg6WkpsZz4QGDK4gzv3En3sMlf6El2bwWjjIp5-VOyEyAnjpraiKLFaGXrRlvLy1lduN0a5sNnbJgCzDdOTkiiIgGzBlR4LU7eEhHx_oQHtzUA/s320/mash+with+truffles.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5713921939601436914" /></a><br />Meaty mash seems to be a bit of a trend because you also find mash with roasting juices and truffles (above) at <a href="http://dabbous.co.uk/">Dabbous</a>, which <a href="http://www.matchingfoodandwine.com/articles/20120224">I've already described</a> as London's hottest opening this year. Admittedly we're only 9 weeks or so in but it's apparently already booked up till May. You can, I imagine, walk into the bar though which is worth doing as the cocktails are really good too. And - who knows - if you're lucky you may pick up a table from a no-show. This is Ollie, the chef, a star in the making if I ever saw one.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTYOlCEkzXI70nSijt7_JjnA186p9QReYs9_b-gCUgHXS0kwbnPZez75jI9UlS6U3qfmSeDQ6Na7vJlqMokYnFsu6bCwXO_cYAl_9BdPLh80dNOQx8hq8RNCSnwGe2xKktZX693mvehEY/s1600/ollie+dabbous.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTYOlCEkzXI70nSijt7_JjnA186p9QReYs9_b-gCUgHXS0kwbnPZez75jI9UlS6U3qfmSeDQ6Na7vJlqMokYnFsu6bCwXO_cYAl_9BdPLh80dNOQx8hq8RNCSnwGe2xKktZX693mvehEY/s320/ollie+dabbous.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5713921339314547106" /></a><br />And finally it's the annual winter set lunch promotion at the <a href="http://www.rivercafe.co.uk/rc_page.php?pg_id=88">River Café</a> which enables you to eat for £25 for two courses and £31 for three instead of the £15-18 and £33-37 you have to pay for a starter and main course respectively at dinner. I did it the year before last and it's a terrific deal. On till the end of March.Fiona Becketthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12970779962455905201noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4917691940652886496.post-70700616292369448022012-02-05T10:32:00.008+00:002012-02-05T11:57:49.715+00:00New harvest olive oil from Fattoria la Vialla<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZHZ22xOED2m-OuT9tcqQh5sVA09tz4_MimWR5lINBTsd-qqNBjOOO3GBeBgY8-MQ-OCN1HJEPS7v0R14JNcelUQbbmXEGCqKjBUVVWAuwGEaYrwXQZqu_9BvudlnJRJAd44uQWT8f1kc/s1600/new+harvest+olive+oil.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZHZ22xOED2m-OuT9tcqQh5sVA09tz4_MimWR5lINBTsd-qqNBjOOO3GBeBgY8-MQ-OCN1HJEPS7v0R14JNcelUQbbmXEGCqKjBUVVWAuwGEaYrwXQZqu_9BvudlnJRJAd44uQWT8f1kc/s320/new+harvest+olive+oil.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5705610860213874578" /></a> There's almost nothing as luscious as freshly pressed olive oil as I was reminded last night when we dunked our bread into a saucerful of bright green grassy Tuscan oil. It's a world away from the cheap - and not so cheap - commercial oils which are blended from all over Europe. Think of the difference between a cup of coffee made from freshly roasted beans and one made from instant coffee granules and you get the picture.<br /><br />I was sent a sample of the new year's harvest by <a href="http://www.lavialla.it/uk/Home_UK.asp">Fattoria La Vialla</a> who I visited a couple of years ago to research a <a href="http://www.matchingfoodandwine.com/articles/20100313">feature</a> for the wine magazine Decanter. It's a large estate in the south of Tuscany that produces its own organic oil, wine, cheese and various artisanal food products but what makes it especially interesting is that they sell not to wholesalers or shops but direct to the public*.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVnYrMRteVbd4wcSzvPIqdVCnu4gs1aGjPMk0JqwgJsOxyrgXRlYjUvhpJWmNQI3soxjARcVEP-g5n0YVn2ns1Rth0sLju9vJMhhG7-VU5wKHWa87JWWyl1tIp_ULdkUxQExOpna720JI/s1600/jars+of+sauces.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVnYrMRteVbd4wcSzvPIqdVCnu4gs1aGjPMk0JqwgJsOxyrgXRlYjUvhpJWmNQI3soxjARcVEP-g5n0YVn2ns1Rth0sLju9vJMhhG7-VU5wKHWa87JWWyl1tIp_ULdkUxQExOpna720JI/s320/jars+of+sauces.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5705611788311538418" /></a> You can buy their products online (you need to register first) or by ordering from their charming handwritten catalogue. And because they cut out the middleman their prices are very reasonable - £12 a 750ml bottle for the new estate bottled olive oil, £1.80-£1.95 a 500g pack for pasta and £3.20-£5.50 for sauces, including delivery. <br /><br />The product I'm most interested in - and plan to order next - is a non-alcoholic freshly squeezed grape juice or <span style="font-style:italic;">spremuta di uva</span> which is made from Sangiovese grapes ("a healthy drink ... which is liked by both big and small" as the brochure nicely puts it) and which they claim has similar health benefits to red wine. That's £4.10 for a 750ml bottle or £1.55 for a 200ml kid-sized one.<br /><br />They're also selling their bright, fruity Vino Novo - Tuscany's answer to Beaujolais Nouveau <a href="http://www.matchingfoodandwine.com/articles/20091109"> which pairs really well</a> with the oil and the estate's own pecorino cheese - at £5.50 a bottle. I'm not quite so grabbed by their more mature reds though the vin santo at £7.50-9 a bottle is terrific value.<br /><br />Most of the products come in bulk - the <span style="font-style:italic;">spremuta di uva</span>, for instance in packs of six so you might want to band together with friends to put in an order. <br /><br />*In the UK, Germany and a number of other European countries.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUvEHprgJESbOkTLWVhqxY9cbcuQeURUUW5wzPsTquoEvl37hdF2mvosarFU3HMxSrC36yw8gio_szeZdg-HfBjhkOjjMpJcDOzh_XUS_ath2KFcMhrLTSdZQWnY7NP8GWwqOvbrNtHnE/s1600/olives+for+pressing.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUvEHprgJESbOkTLWVhqxY9cbcuQeURUUW5wzPsTquoEvl37hdF2mvosarFU3HMxSrC36yw8gio_szeZdg-HfBjhkOjjMpJcDOzh_XUS_ath2KFcMhrLTSdZQWnY7NP8GWwqOvbrNtHnE/s320/olives+for+pressing.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5705616151532263810" /></a>Fiona Becketthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12970779962455905201noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4917691940652886496.post-47696292460369827872012-01-23T17:05:00.006+00:002012-01-23T22:11:00.227+00:00Chairman's Reserve 'The Forgotten Casks' rum<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy_JqYRXWA4LNgebREk2gTCxMmW1lV5Nj8cHvu0u2geHsd8dSSd5d8YuU-Y0kaAOvvGYzWRLT_tOyDje9ClPwg3-SbTdbZmW6Wj3jRVRRyxgRXejTmStm7nEDfDJNJzK59Z8JRtowV9g8/s1600/The+Forgotten+Casks+rum.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy_JqYRXWA4LNgebREk2gTCxMmW1lV5Nj8cHvu0u2geHsd8dSSd5d8YuU-Y0kaAOvvGYzWRLT_tOyDje9ClPwg3-SbTdbZmW6Wj3jRVRRyxgRXejTmStm7nEDfDJNJzK59Z8JRtowV9g8/s320/The+Forgotten+Casks+rum.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5700881147845889650" /></a><br />If you've never been to <a href="http://www.gerrys.uk.com/">Gerry's of Old Compton Street</a>, remedy that straightaway. It's the best offie in London - not that I spend a lot of time hanging round offies - with every drink you can possibly imagine.<br /><br />They also have a thing about rum, hence a monthly rum promotion which this month - as it was last month and apparently next month* - is the <a href="http://www.saintluciarums.com/the-forgotten-casks.html">Chairman's Reserve 'The Forgotten Casks'</a> from St Lucia distillers - a sumptuous rum that tastes of dark, fudgy muscovado sugar. At £26.50 (around £29 elsewhere) it's a bargain. <br /><br />The story goes that the rum was produced after the company discovered a number of casks which they'd thought were lost after a fire destroyed part of the distillery in 2007. I haven't tasted the regular Chairman's Reserve so can't vouch how special they were but it did pick up a gold medal and best in class trophy at last year's International Wine and Spirit Competition. The perfect drink for the last dark days of January, anyway.<br /><br />* So possibly only a new rum every three months but hey, who minds that?Fiona Becketthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12970779962455905201noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4917691940652886496.post-68113490557478351762012-01-18T10:26:00.008+00:002012-01-18T17:13:37.958+00:00Pashmak Persian fairy floss<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBLX9K6Pm0Ok8PZErQw90lo84fjvdqBJrJhF7OXCLB4VO74m2FN_2chsbCX2Ij2Au1kwswHIE1VKTsbSRZzw6xu4J8r23HVy0I64ERgAuCOO0381YdSj-jAluzRahAnMdipDoPaTmNsxE/s1600/persian+fairy+floss.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBLX9K6Pm0Ok8PZErQw90lo84fjvdqBJrJhF7OXCLB4VO74m2FN_2chsbCX2Ij2Au1kwswHIE1VKTsbSRZzw6xu4J8r23HVy0I64ERgAuCOO0381YdSj-jAluzRahAnMdipDoPaTmNsxE/s320/persian+fairy+floss.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5698919326413591410" /></a><br />As one of those people who no sooner sees a weird dish or ingredient than has to try it I was never going to be able to resist the offer of <a href="http://pariya.com/">Pariya</a> Pashmak Persian fairy floss on the menu of <a href="http://www.riverstation.co.uk/home">Riverstation</a> in Bristol this week.<br /><br />As the name suggests it's a bit like candyfloss but not as wiry or sugary - more like the texture and appearance of a soft toy or cushion filling to be honest. It comes in several flavours including pistachio, chocolate, vanilla and rose and you can buy it by the bag from <a href="http://www.harveynichols.com/s372642-pariya-chocolate-fairy-floss.html">Harvey Nicks</a> and branches of Ottolenghi. <span style="font-style:italic;">(And Selfridges, which stocks a saffron flavoured one, so I'm told.)</span><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6oDOg5C9bZjvc7EljXzlQguIUn-29BuJyJuAgjRhun2Mqgpr5ZaJ6cB5k4UnoAKVq4nzGmUT-7FqOXLIIPo7dvLCcGTYQeAX-B2wLEcFb0uueqPty5Q_paD20_6ZLXIbyVSa_i2ppKfA/s1600/pashmak+persian+fairy+floss.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6oDOg5C9bZjvc7EljXzlQguIUn-29BuJyJuAgjRhun2Mqgpr5ZaJ6cB5k4UnoAKVq4nzGmUT-7FqOXLIIPo7dvLCcGTYQeAX-B2wLEcFb0uueqPty5Q_paD20_6ZLXIbyVSa_i2ppKfA/s320/pashmak+persian+fairy+floss.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5698918889460171842" /></a><br />What on earth does it taste like? Well the vanilla one wasn't wildly vanilla-y but the chocolate one was rather nice - like a whipped up Galaxy or a milky mug of Cadbury's chocolate. <br /><br />I can imagine making a fabulously kitsch Valentine's dessert - a sundae topped with a sprinkling of rose pashmak, perhaps, or a pavlova with a furry topping like a mad Ascot hat. You could have a lot of fun with this.Fiona Becketthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12970779962455905201noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4917691940652886496.post-74512504560564314292012-01-13T09:30:00.006+00:002012-01-13T17:22:40.788+00:00Five more blogs<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP4b2mQGRBgtQw6fSCqk7Ru48dUYWXz7cpw0uY2-TOIf5L3uYTGHXJ4bCFKdTHbGZgwAZT3p0ZscU77o_ZJrSpM89C0u1_Dq6KhKEvKltId6xGP9h7Z_ja6VP-R93QGUF-rJl2iguRX_c/s1600/Drinkster.tiff"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 156px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP4b2mQGRBgtQw6fSCqk7Ru48dUYWXz7cpw0uY2-TOIf5L3uYTGHXJ4bCFKdTHbGZgwAZT3p0ZscU77o_ZJrSpM89C0u1_Dq6KhKEvKltId6xGP9h7Z_ja6VP-R93QGUF-rJl2iguRX_c/s320/Drinkster.tiff" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5697055727054597634" /></a><br />New year, new blogs. Except that I’m hardly quick off the mark. January 13th is a bit late in the day to kick off a month’s blogging. It’s been a hard few weeks though which I won’t bore you with. <br /><br />Anyway great new blogs keep on appearing or at least drifting across my radar. Here are five (and a few extra links along the way just to make up for my tardiness):<br /><br /><a href="http://drinkster.blogspot.com/">Drinkster</a> <br />I met wine writer Philip White in Australia last month and immediately took to his iconoclastic and thoroughly un-PC blog, Drinkster. Full of anything that takes his fancy such as <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2cWq3mIp4cU ">this recording</a> of Robert Wyatt’s Sea Song and <a href="http://drinkster.blogspot.com/2012/01/let-this-be-lesson-to-you.html">an old French poster</a> headed <span style="font-style:italic;">l’alcool empoisonne lentement</span>. The sidebar bears his credo “relishing the power concealment brings, I refuse to hide.” Good for him.<br /><br /><a href="http://breakfastbythesea.blogspot.com/">Breakfast by the Sea </a><br />A blog I discovered through food writer and photographer <a href="http://www.danlepard.com/">Dan Lepard</a>, written by Heather from Brighton (which is on the south coast of England for those of you who don’t know it). Nothing flashy in the way of words just simple recipes beautifully photographed. Charming.<br /><br />F<a href="http://forevereggsploring.com/">orever Eggsploring</a><br />I like a blogger with an obsession and David Constable’s is eggs. Not just eggs but scotch eggs. That’s right - an entire blog devoted to scotch eggs which David describes for the unenlightened as <span style="font-style:italic;">"consisting of a shelled hard-boiled egg, wrapped in a sausage meat mixture, coated in breadcrumbs, and deep-fried"</span>. You’d think there wouldn’t be enough to sustain a blog but David has found them. He also has another food blog called David J Constable. His review of the <a href="http://www.foodepedia.co.uk/restaurant-reviews/2012/jan/rainforest_cafe.htm">Rainforest Cafe</a> is memorable.<br /><br /><a href="http://londonreviewofsandwiches.wordpress.com/">The London Review of Sandwiches</a><br />Talking of obsessions one of my favourite bloggers Helen Graves has come up with a sharply written new blog this week: the London Review of Sandwiches. No problem sourcing material for this I’d have thought simply finding the time to post. Helen’s main blog <a href="http://helengraves.co.uk/">Food Stories</a> is already regularly updated and she also blogs for AOL as well as having a pretty demanding day job. Still, as she puts it “I am sandwich loving lady”. You can’t keep a good obsession down. <br /><br /><a href="http://www.cooknscribble.com">Cook’n’scribble </a><br />Less of a read, I suppose, more of a business idea, this is the website/blog of American food writer Molly O’Neill who runs writing courses for food writers and bloggers. Before you jump up and down with excitement and think this would be a great excuse to go to the states the sessions are held online or via conference call over a period of weeks - great for busy bloggers whose writing has to be fitted in round the day job. She also writes a blog which addresses interesting subjects in the world of writing and other interesting blogs and podcasts like <a href="http://www.spilledmilkpodcast.com/">Spilled Milk</a> and <a href="http://www.ediblecommunities.com/radio/">Edible Radio</a>. Thanks to Ruth Reichl for this heads-up.Fiona Becketthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12970779962455905201noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4917691940652886496.post-43398183999538768682011-12-20T08:49:00.002+00:002011-12-20T08:49:00.394+00:00Beerd, Bristol - the new face of pubs?<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5n1CCVyzsTi_Vt-aBwxoqLzLIhnI7q98XgGACAgZfH3tqsFb4V2XUPj7iqvSLo2Mu5FSd0jHYKJSihF-KJ7xK8Ty9c7wJJoTlkGXaPX3ZtuVXyaCH5noOnOSQKkFkIgM1XoX56NVBdQQ/s1600/beerdy+weirdy.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5n1CCVyzsTi_Vt-aBwxoqLzLIhnI7q98XgGACAgZfH3tqsFb4V2XUPj7iqvSLo2Mu5FSd0jHYKJSihF-KJ7xK8Ty9c7wJJoTlkGXaPX3ZtuVXyaCH5noOnOSQKkFkIgM1XoX56NVBdQQ/s320/beerdy+weirdy.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5687399638600615570" /></a><br />If you were going to open a new business would you send up your potential customers? Calling a beer bar Beerd and - cheekier still - getting your waitresses to wear T shirts with 'beerdy weirdy' on the back seems a high risk strategy akin to calling a new nail salon Chavs. Especially if some of your punters are not noted for their sense of humour.<br /><br />So, Bath Ales' new opening in Bristol - a craft beer and pizza bar along the lines of the new places that have been opening in London (Brewdog, Craft Bar & Co and Draft House) - is a brave move and one I hope will succeed. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX5MSX7Oml3dSisoAFgdeido2PPhoCcgVNzWyYOdyDP1_psva0xPKEYNsJFcmMJBGtqRw1tO1PKcqIbn9KFltGRH83BiwKNKxbirK1In-4jyI1Kp-d_8rxcTw4GG7jGXLFkqOJt_2yBxw/s1600/beerd+interior.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 260px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX5MSX7Oml3dSisoAFgdeido2PPhoCcgVNzWyYOdyDP1_psva0xPKEYNsJFcmMJBGtqRw1tO1PKcqIbn9KFltGRH83BiwKNKxbirK1In-4jyI1Kp-d_8rxcTw4GG7jGXLFkqOJt_2yBxw/s320/beerd+interior.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5687400393667413042" /></a><br />Its audience is obviously going to be very different from the CAMRA crowd. The airy rooms are dotted with brightly coloured tables, the bar sports bright neon hand pumps, lots of bottles and - shock, horror - keg beer. It's a student area - near the university and next to the hospital. Will they be interested in bottles of Scheider Aventinus at £7.95 a pop and small tapa style bowls of padron peppers at £4? I'm not sure.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_L7oAcOxlJ5dVQ8mzitcY7JQpNyUdyEXF2X_koPKOHqFCvGixAdsVRGSYBYOtji9tlN-pPO3l2avFyfQD9OhmaYPNrom_Zr8kkPq4BrV3mRDA1iG501i0qqOnD6JlBjB6PS9ZG16GfVA/s1600/beerdy+pizza.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_L7oAcOxlJ5dVQ8mzitcY7JQpNyUdyEXF2X_koPKOHqFCvGixAdsVRGSYBYOtji9tlN-pPO3l2avFyfQD9OhmaYPNrom_Zr8kkPq4BrV3mRDA1iG501i0qqOnD6JlBjB6PS9ZG16GfVA/s320/beerdy+pizza.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5687399897961035010" /></a><br />They should go for the pizzas though our youngest, just out of uni and a pizza aficionado pronounced them underseasoned. I thought they were pretty good myself with a fantastic crust but I think I just chose a more interesting topping (prosciutto, artichoke, olive and mushroom). They were hard to cut on the somewhat slithery plates though and took a fair while to come which I'm guessing could mean a long wait on a busy evening. <br /><br />Still it was only the first full day's trading and the friendly staff were eager for feedback. Apparently they'll be changing the beers regularly and they obviously know how to serve them, as you'd expect from a brewery-run operation. My half of Thornbrige Jaipur was in very good nick. And it's great to find them available in thirds for tasting as well as halves, two thirds and pints.<br /><br />An interesting development. Cool beer places serving 'craft beer' rather than 'real ale' are going to be one of the hot trends for 2012, I reckon. Let's see if I'm right.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGVHPfJwgnq8UuIuI6Oh5aeTtF0-EwbY89gAwbflNymxPfrEAE8tvmipGFUzv6vRvUwFha5YdginvIDWLwn4e3qUsQ2Brv7lQw47AJqDS1olbWSyBfFor0EkRplZhejCIDQripz7CG_JM/s1600/beerd+exterior2.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGVHPfJwgnq8UuIuI6Oh5aeTtF0-EwbY89gAwbflNymxPfrEAE8tvmipGFUzv6vRvUwFha5YdginvIDWLwn4e3qUsQ2Brv7lQw47AJqDS1olbWSyBfFor0EkRplZhejCIDQripz7CG_JM/s320/beerd+exterior2.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5687401000320024610" /></a>Fiona Becketthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12970779962455905201noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4917691940652886496.post-80300020339610429122011-12-16T09:42:00.017+00:002011-12-16T11:36:34.496+00:00My top 10 books for Christmas<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvhGDX_jkHglU9JstW39nCaMEAWmc67YFECwfAQQbtICs-aRzF5Z1tdJ01kueloXlfVk_1SYBLmH5574VHLdUtDZh5z6RZOn7cRFW2p6BGk3o2B8lRMxsCTH8pqotGVFmNiphp02TKGcE/s1600/tasting+india.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvhGDX_jkHglU9JstW39nCaMEAWmc67YFECwfAQQbtICs-aRzF5Z1tdJ01kueloXlfVk_1SYBLmH5574VHLdUtDZh5z6RZOn7cRFW2p6BGk3o2B8lRMxsCTH8pqotGVFmNiphp02TKGcE/s320/tasting+india.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5686668278219858194" /></a><br />My bookshelves are groaning under the usual end of year avalanche of books. Despite the recession there seem to have been more than ever in 2011 - and bigger ones than ever. Publishers' answer to the relentless march of the iPad and other readers seems to have been to produce larger and more lavish volumes to demonstrate that a screen can never replicate the pleasure of handling a book. <br /><br />So what would I give my friends (books being the most useful of last-minute presents for the congenitally disorganised)? Here in no particular order are my top 10: <br /><br /><a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/Tasting-India-Christine-Manfield/dp/184091601X/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1324030699&sr=8-1">Tasting India</a> Christine Manfield (£40 Conran Octopus)<br />The biggest and blingiest book of the year, this gold satin-covered tome is admittedly not one I’d pick up in a bookshop not least because its weight (about 2 1/2 kilos) would cripple you on the way home. It’s also totally impractical for a messy cook like me. BUT despite the sumptuous presentation and photography it’s no mere coffee table book, but a passionate tribute to Indian food and culture by Australian chef Christine Manfield with some surprisingly straightforward home cooks’ recipes. Including an irresistible number involving potatoes which makes it a must-buy for me. At £23.30 on amazon, the price of a modest Indian takeaway, it’s a steal.<br />Who should I buy it for? Anyone who loves India and Indian food.<br /><br /><a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/Short-Sweet-Dan-Lepard/dp/0007391439">Short and Sweet</a>: Dan Lepard (£25, 4th Estate) <br />A misnomer if there ever was one. At 560 pages this book is far from short but the recipes, it’s true, are reassuringly brief. Reading Lepard, who in addition to being an cracking good writer is also a talented food photographer, is like having a friend in the kitchen. The book is peppered with really useful tips (such as that you need a lot of baking powder in a banana cake to avoid it being heavy) and explanations of techniques. It covers everything from bread to home made sweets with some irresistible savoury recipes (garlic butter and cheddar scones, anyone?) along the way. The most inspiring baking book of the year - and there have been many.<br />Who should I buy it for? Someone who thinks they can’t bake. (Like me). Or someone who can but wants to bake better. <br /><br /><a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/Perfect-Essential-Recipes-Every-Repertoire/dp/1905490836/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1324030773&sr=1-1">Perfect: 68 essential recipes for every cook's repertoire</a>. Felicity Cloake (Fig Tree £18.99)<br />Despite my dislike of ‘the perfect’ tag on recipes this is a terrific book based on Felicity Cloake’s engaging weekly columns for the Guardian where she seeks out the ideal method for many of our best loved dishes. Cloake’s rare combination of diligent digging and lightness of touch makes these absorbing reading even if you might not agree with her conclusions. (I still can’t be persuaded that tomatoes are the right topping for <a href="http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/wordofmouth/2011/oct/06/how-to-cook-perfect-macaroni-cheese">macaroni cheese</a>)<br />Who should I buy it for? Someone who doesn’t want too many recipe books (amazingly there are such people) but wants their recipes to work first time. Recently graduated students.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8SGjrZ8A6P4sT2bfUHwN-VlaRSZXE8JYMko-M6aqqLesw0tO9BnU-Bvz6SyXql53MpU9qJPo9_b0NOZGCg6YmmFsJwufcClBPQVCWCPMv5yB60fCEcbvKF-s3AZshFPybR_8HaDSSxPs/s1600/51%252Bxr2YSshL._SL500_AA300_.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8SGjrZ8A6P4sT2bfUHwN-VlaRSZXE8JYMko-M6aqqLesw0tO9BnU-Bvz6SyXql53MpU9qJPo9_b0NOZGCg6YmmFsJwufcClBPQVCWCPMv5yB60fCEcbvKF-s3AZshFPybR_8HaDSSxPs/s200/51%252Bxr2YSshL._SL500_AA300_.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5686669868604770178" /></a> <a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/Good-Cook-Simon-Hopkinson/dp/1849902283/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1324029321&sr=1-1">The Good Cook</a>: Simon Hopkinson (£25 BBC Books)<br />For me this was the TV series of the year - much to my surprise. I feared that ‘Hoppy’ would be stiff and awkward in front of the camera. Instead he was warm, reassuring and inspiring and these are the recipes he cooked. He also writes like a dream. Don’t make the mistake of doubting his word as I arrogantly did with a recipe for baked papardelle, pancetta and porcini which I thought didn’t contain enough pasta. He’s a supremely accurate recipe writer. Trust him.<br />Who should I buy it for? Any good cook will love it but older ones will probably have all his other books. Keen cooks under 40.<br /><br /><a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/Made-Sicily-Giorgio-Locatelli/dp/0007433697/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1324029350&sr=1-1">Made in Sicily:</a> Georgio Locatelli (£30, 4th Estate)<br />I don’t actually own this book yet, but have flipped through the pages on amazon and fingered it longingly in bookshops and it strikes me as the Italian cookery book you’ll most want to own this year. (Hint to my nearest and dearest). Locatelli is one of London’s most talented Italian chefs and Sicilian cooking is very special, quite unlike the rest of Italy. The recipes are simple and delicious but you will need good ingredients. <span style="font-style:italic;">Insalata calda di polpo</span> (warm octopus salad) is not going to be something you can run up from your local Tesco fish counter. Maybe download it on Kindle and take it on holiday.<br />Who should I buy it for? Any Italian food nut. Chef groupies. <br /><br /><a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/Pieminister-Pie-Seasons-Tristan-Hogg/dp/059306805X/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1324029495&sr=1-1">Pieminister: a pie for all seasons</a>, Tristan Hogg and Jon Simon (£17.99 Bantam Press)<br />A strong contender for comfort food book of the year this book does exactly what it says on the tin. Lots of great ideas for wacky pies like the wabbit roll (pork, rabbit and black pudding), ‘flying frying pan’ smoked haddock and cider pie and plumble (mulled wine and plum crumble) should ensure your New Year gets off to an unhealthy start. There’s even a spread on booze matching. <br />Who should I buy it for? Pie obsessives.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFeiF-B3FZZS19zCxH2k-QhtZSX3gSMk9fVrr3Tjc1YM-5ktelMb6AYkPpFCkjU8W6DM-QoAcJxfLfpXjW81jfxECxA2V9sLu0bd5e6C7rwV92QbzYUTClUWDmLQ9NTMtUFpf_K1Px2rE/s1600/51xHnLceH9L._SL500_AA300_.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFeiF-B3FZZS19zCxH2k-QhtZSX3gSMk9fVrr3Tjc1YM-5ktelMb6AYkPpFCkjU8W6DM-QoAcJxfLfpXjW81jfxECxA2V9sLu0bd5e6C7rwV92QbzYUTClUWDmLQ9NTMtUFpf_K1Px2rE/s200/51xHnLceH9L._SL500_AA300_.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5686670689242889282" /></a> <a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/Veggiestan-Vegetable-Lovers-Tour-Middle/dp/1862058849/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1324029566&sr=1-1">Veggiestan: a vegetable lover’s tour of the middle east</a>. Sally Butcher (Pavilion £25)<br />I’m impressed by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall’s new veg book, I must confess, but celebrities of his ilk don’t need any further endorsement. Instead buy Sally Butcher’s quirky and delightful Veggiestan for the veggie in your life. Sally owns an Iranian deli in south London and it’s her second book (the first being the equally entertaining <a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/Persia-Peckham-Persepolis-Sally-Butcher/dp/190301851X/ref=sr_1_2?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1324029618&sr=1-2">Persia in Peckham</a>). My copy is already full of Post-it notes marking recipes I want to try like Afghan leek pies, Armenian Green Lentil Garlic and Spinach soup and Onion, Chilli and Mint Marmalade. A refreshingly original book.<br />Who should I buy it for? adventurous veggie cooks. Adventurous cooks who cook for veggies<br /><br /><a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/Supper-Club-Recipes-underground-restaurant/dp/0007382995/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1289999021&sr=8-7">Supper Club</a>: Kerstin Rodgers (£25 Collins)<br />The name Kerstin Rodgers may mean nothing to you but if you inhabit the blogosphere you’ll know her better as underground restaurateur <a href="http://marmitelover.blogspot.com/">Ms Marmitelover</a>. This is less a cookery book than a manual on how to run a supper club and entertain your friends outrageously. (Think punk Nigella.) In contrast to Simon Hopkinson I would treat the recipes with a certain amount of caution. To give you a flavour: Chav’s White Chocolate Trifle with Malibu, Cockaleekie without the Cock, deep-fried peanut butter sandwiches .... Hugely entertaining.<br />Who should I buy it for? Lovers of kitsch<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghCe-oB4Tk_SJ_V6RVk6EvbRgUkVFhL5G2N_YjTDJsMkJsCJKvX2xSrOqfA5UskE31E50lAy9I5H8ghT34DH8BGPVqPugA9c0TcOEcu4kmzlS53dsen7YIHjmXA_Mff2Gik926-5J_5VE/s1600/51FmoyCghNL._SL500_AA300_.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghCe-oB4Tk_SJ_V6RVk6EvbRgUkVFhL5G2N_YjTDJsMkJsCJKvX2xSrOqfA5UskE31E50lAy9I5H8ghT34DH8BGPVqPugA9c0TcOEcu4kmzlS53dsen7YIHjmXA_Mff2Gik926-5J_5VE/s200/51FmoyCghNL._SL500_AA300_.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5686671009024119634" /></a> <a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/Couture-Chocolate-Masterclass-William-Curley/dp/1906417598/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1324029931&sr=1-1">Couture Chocolate</a>: William Curley (Jacqui Small £30)<br />Confession time. I don’t get that excited about chocolate and wouldn’t dream of making most of the recipes in this book by Britain’s foremost chocolatier William Curley but it undoubtedly wins the prize for the most beautiful book of this year (just look at the picture of Curley’s gleaming millionaires shortbread which he makes with salted caramel. Well maybe I might have just one ....). Although the techniques involved are complicated there are clear step-by-steps and some of the recipes like chestnut and sesame brownies look surprisingly straightforward. Stunning.<br />Who should I buy it for? Aspiring pastry chefs, chocoholics <br /><br /><a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/Jellies-Their-Moulds-English-Kitchen/dp/1903018765/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1324030045&sr=1-1">Jellies and their Moulds</a> Peter Brears (£12 Prospect Books)<br />Prospect Books in Devon is a tiny publishing house which publishes titles no other publisher in their right mind would touch. I eschewed two of this year's offerings (Tripe: a most excellent dish and Testicles: Balls in Cooking and Culture) in favour of this delightful book from last year on jelly from food historian Peter Brears. There are some charming illustrations which I can’t help but feel Ms Marmitelover would approve of. <br />Who should I buy it for? Jelly lovers and those who like to read cookbooks in bed<br /><br />And then there’s . . . <br /><br /><a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/Hawksmoor-Home-Breakfasts-Puddings-Cocktails/dp/1848093357/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1324030141&sr=1-1">Hawksmoor at Home</a> (£25 Preface publishing) in which I had a hand along with my son Will Beckett, his business partner at Hawksmoor Huw Gott, chef Richard Turner and Dan Lepard, this time as photographer. I like to think I can be objective enough to say I’d want to own it even if I hadn’t been involved but clearly I’m not. It is a terrific book though, full of outrageously meaty recipes and killer cocktails along with some splendidly discursive meanderings on the origin of recipes, food traditions and ingredients for which Huw is largely responsible. <br />Who should I buy it for? Meat fiends. Food history geeks. (Not vegetarians. Oh no.)<br /><br />And some other books I’ve already reviewed and enjoyed this year: Signe Johansen's <a href="http://foodandwinefinds.blogspot.com/2011/05/six-recipes-to-cook-from-scandilicious.html">Scandilicious</a>, James Ramsden's <a href="http://foodandwinefinds.blogspot.com/2011/06/six-recipes-to-cook-from-small.html">Small Adventures in Cooking</a> Niamh Shield's <a href="http://foodandwinefinds.blogspot.com/2011/09/six-actually-seven-recipes-to-make-from.html">Comfort & Spice</a> and <a href="http://foodandwinefinds.blogspot.com/2011/08/six-recipes-to-cook-from-everyday-and.html">Everyday and Sunday</a> by Jane Baxter of Riverford Farm.Fiona Becketthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12970779962455905201noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4917691940652886496.post-23944181794346720612011-11-25T18:25:00.013+00:002011-11-25T20:48:20.391+00:00Is Meat Liquor as good as it’s cracked up to be?<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgicECy7gfRqMiV9J1bvBb45T6231bxYw21FCnA3ACs4_7nj602e3gwAh8vWCYjcOm-HETnoKlz_9tYBlrsBZs4iezs2nwSIn3KVpw52YcgU-_N7iNDrNXb8U-QfWllCVjruYaw4GS-U0w/s1600/meat+liquor+neon.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgicECy7gfRqMiV9J1bvBb45T6231bxYw21FCnA3ACs4_7nj602e3gwAh8vWCYjcOm-HETnoKlz_9tYBlrsBZs4iezs2nwSIn3KVpw52YcgU-_N7iNDrNXb8U-QfWllCVjruYaw4GS-U0w/s320/meat+liquor+neon.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5679002639314203218" /></a> <br />Maybe I expected too much. I’d been gagging to go to <a href="http://www.meatliquor.com/">Meat Liquor</a> or <a href="http://www.themeatwagon.co.uk/">Meatwagon</a> as it then was since last summer when a chef friend seemingly went down there every night to get his burger fix. And now there was a restaurant. Just off Oxford Street. With amazing cocktails. In jam jars! And deep fried pickles. Heaven!<br /><br />The menu certainly reads well. I’m up for any burger called Dead Hippie (2 patties, sauce, lettuce, cheese, pickles, onions) apparently their take on the Big Mac. I loved the fact they put a whole roll of kitchen towel on the table. Yes, it’s THAT messy.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ0sXTyHyEFpDQ1P_KUMIKqGBUBUVGIp-Z05lm2g0U9ueJuPmy3WmqCBK6X72W_lmlAzVMtmiRopKSeklpR9DQcExjdPBYjNoMITuhGM8KBNThKFwPwPbolL7d0CoqgABiXYLjVmXxZH0/s1600/kitchen+roll.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ0sXTyHyEFpDQ1P_KUMIKqGBUBUVGIp-Z05lm2g0U9ueJuPmy3WmqCBK6X72W_lmlAzVMtmiRopKSeklpR9DQcExjdPBYjNoMITuhGM8KBNThKFwPwPbolL7d0CoqgABiXYLjVmXxZH0/s320/kitchen+roll.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5679002976605253490" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM0Zm-4UaCHpr7FC7tRs0BJY5aUW9RiIDdJFeMozR92rKr7zzLPajJ58kkWVYvXceC0AOWD2a_CIHfZoI-En7fAOl-T3OwAS9cZ0NPwbA0RYOqaGwwPVrBOWsvVoG3JYr3Ga-rCuWaB0c/s1600/messed+up+burger.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM0Zm-4UaCHpr7FC7tRs0BJY5aUW9RiIDdJFeMozR92rKr7zzLPajJ58kkWVYvXceC0AOWD2a_CIHfZoI-En7fAOl-T3OwAS9cZ0NPwbA0RYOqaGwwPVrBOWsvVoG3JYr3Ga-rCuWaB0c/s320/messed+up+burger.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5679003589085614146" /></a><br />But the burger was a real disappointment. Overcooked, it tasted more like mince then chopped meat. The chips were pallid, bland and frankly McDonalds-ish. The homage had gone too far. My daughter’s chicken burger looked - and tasted - a bit like KFC. What on earth had gone wrong?<br /><br />Maybe lunch is the wrong time to go (I suspect it is). Maybe you need a couple of serves of House Grog “a dangerous blend of light and dark rums with a splash of overproof rum” before you get stuck in. Maybe you should ask the ‘burgerette’ for some Pure Death Sauce. There must be some reason why everyone is raving about it except me.<br /><br />Frankly if you’d come across this restaurant in say, Luton or Leicester and they’d served a burger like that you’d have thought ‘that’s not a bad burger’ but from a joint touted as serving some best trash food in London it felt like a massive let down.<br /> <br />Two other quibbles - the wine list while fun isn’t exactly cheap. £9.50 for a glass of Washington State riesling, even if it’s called Kung Fu Girl is going it a bit. And while the service was fine the message “‘Cheers mate’ is not an acceptable tip” on your bill is just plain cheeky. (For the record we tipped. In cash. But I didn't need to be instructed to.)<br /><br />If you want a great burger, Honest Burger in Brixton Village which <a href="http://foodandwinefinds.blogspot.com/2011/11/three-courses-at-brixton-village-all-at.html">I checked out the other day</a> is streets better. But what about you? Is Meat Liquor as good as the original? Meatwagon fans tell me I had an off day . . .Fiona Becketthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12970779962455905201noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4917691940652886496.post-49026063017519733172011-11-16T07:34:00.006+00:002011-11-16T08:45:45.074+00:00Taste the Difference Dun Leire 8yo Irish Single Malt<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKEQHkwNp3fnJs0geq-7_DHOCUnPVJktfxSm-76TcEWZY8QfQCHGrJDC8U0ueoNpxQokbyki6PTLhaxOogmv4TPZyyOe028DcCgIrDmdRje82IRcAarTQ51LVhuYA-x52JNSVDC9DG3xk/s1600/161110.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 76px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKEQHkwNp3fnJs0geq-7_DHOCUnPVJktfxSm-76TcEWZY8QfQCHGrJDC8U0ueoNpxQokbyki6PTLhaxOogmv4TPZyyOe028DcCgIrDmdRje82IRcAarTQ51LVhuYA-x52JNSVDC9DG3xk/s200/161110.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5675497854382358162" /></a> It's not often I feel moved to write about whisky (well, actually, slightly more often since I went to Islay a couple of months ago) but this is a real bargain.<br /><br />Sainsbury's is selling its excellent Taste the Difference Dun Leire 8yo Irish Single Malt for £15 for the next three weeks instead of the launch price of £19.99<br /><br />Those who poo-poo Irish whiskey as being inferior to Scotch (my late mother-in-law was always outraged if we tried to sneak one by her) would have to acknowledge that this is a fine dram by any standard. Matured in American Bourbon and Irish whiskey barrels it's made by the Cooley distillery.<br /><br />My tasting note says - rather lamely, but it was the end of a long wine tasting - 'beautifully sweet and fragrant'. For a more evocative description you'll have to turn to Jim Murray's Whisky Bible which describes it as 'one of the great whiskies from Cooley, ever' and names it his Irish Single Malt of the year. At £15 it's a steal.<br /><br />Sainsbury's also has a trio of Scottish whiskies in the Taste the Difference range, a 12 year old Highland, a 12 year old Speyside and (my favourite) a 12 year old Islay, all at £28.49 (though I'm waiting to see if there are special offers on those too). They're all non-chill filtered, unusual for supermarket whiskies, which adds to the complexity and flavour. <br /><br />It's interesting how whisky seems to be becoming the new battleground for supermarkets. Aldi is selling a very fine 24 year old Glen Marnoch whisky in its stores next Thursday for £29.99 which might sound expensive but is probably about a third of the price you'd have to pay for a bottle of that age and provenance. There will only be a few in each branch though so get down there early.Fiona Becketthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12970779962455905201noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4917691940652886496.post-67876001076932966032011-11-11T21:34:00.016+00:002011-11-12T09:36:28.214+00:00A three course lunch at Brixton Village (all at different restaurants)<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3LbX9jy-6fqr2_5C_i9tXO8t46bKa7xE8TOIVFeQciaSurfDnPzbsne_vNE0ic9DCXRakD7wUmSRNxeh8uztuEjYwi4bhoWqRq2nKU2uAbSrhtN7oFFXbDbZbzH8is3FjKxrh2RgEfGg/s1600/elephant.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3LbX9jy-6fqr2_5C_i9tXO8t46bKa7xE8TOIVFeQciaSurfDnPzbsne_vNE0ic9DCXRakD7wUmSRNxeh8uztuEjYwi4bhoWqRq2nKU2uAbSrhtN7oFFXbDbZbzH8is3FjKxrh2RgEfGg/s320/elephant.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5673860909630833474" /></a><br />The problem with living out of London is that you feel totally out of the loop when it comes to new openings. The whole world, it seems - certainly the whole blogging world - has been to the conglomeration of cool cafés and restaurants in Brixton Village, a place where you might once have hesitated to set foot unless you were in search of callaloo and tripe. But that's not the case, of course, and if you haven't been, as I hadn't until yesterday I strongly recommend you go.<br /><br />I went with my good mate Fiona Sims (<a href="http://www.the2fionas.com/">the other Fiona</a>) which was a mistake. The original intention was to have a quick burger at <a href="http://www.honestburgers.co.uk/">Honest Burgers</a> and return to the very interesting biodynamic wine tasting we'd been at up to then. But as there was a queue at HB we had to explore other options. Fiona favoured Elephant (Pakistani street food), I wanted to try the okonomiyaki at Okan.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI_oN2TSRgktCqmOfo1jxLgM4XZDdfkCOoZoi8lNnycBsYE0lvRZcW3JOwM1gM_9tE_AnKlnWseJ5BGdRXYVlZxIRcLZt0QkJMh19B9XuL43l2mCWEfqo3p-G4bjX-hnJpyr4nP6Sz41M/s1600/spinach+pakora.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI_oN2TSRgktCqmOfo1jxLgM4XZDdfkCOoZoi8lNnycBsYE0lvRZcW3JOwM1gM_9tE_AnKlnWseJ5BGdRXYVlZxIRcLZt0QkJMh19B9XuL43l2mCWEfqo3p-G4bjX-hnJpyr4nP6Sz41M/s320/spinach+pakora.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5673861673304255410" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJhVCYJh8Dq1ad7DjzXt8H2crEGrq2HdNdPGNFAFFLZnRSnoRuN4A-D_lqHNr0jf7QAwXBsMLRiLhJF0BvVksqqxfef-CQTQf8TSivGHxJjyTBAUWXfiIvrSnOMxq0lVMbGgTFJRbKmz0/s1600/vegetable+thali.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJhVCYJh8Dq1ad7DjzXt8H2crEGrq2HdNdPGNFAFFLZnRSnoRuN4A-D_lqHNr0jf7QAwXBsMLRiLhJF0BvVksqqxfef-CQTQf8TSivGHxJjyTBAUWXfiIvrSnOMxq0lVMbGgTFJRbKmz0/s320/vegetable+thali.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5673861393236388530" /></a><br />We settled on <a href="http://elephantcafeonline.blogspot.com/">Elephant</a> (above) where we shared a spinach pakora and a veggie Thali. Being an aficionado of Bristol's<a href="http://www.thethalicafe.co.uk/"> Thali Cafe</a> I don't think it quite lived up to theirs - but it was hot (in both senses of the word) freshly prepared and cheap - by London standards. (About £11.50 for the two of us). Great value.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIpDLHjYc9nIoVYQnxZ_bitXkpFnmwVDuVEoxqe2W0oLPOALojtQj2q9JABPK2wOACTYwwsDn_MD43kUpIq6h3jhnvAurbEhAqHU1zLmH5XeD6kWCUdB6yz-hFdHgPSZaFDB3D2GKRdhI/s1600/okonomiyaki.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIpDLHjYc9nIoVYQnxZ_bitXkpFnmwVDuVEoxqe2W0oLPOALojtQj2q9JABPK2wOACTYwwsDn_MD43kUpIq6h3jhnvAurbEhAqHU1zLmH5XeD6kWCUdB6yz-hFdHgPSZaFDB3D2GKRdhI/s320/okonomiyaki.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5673862094089851474" /></a><br />While we were there we spotted the owner bringing in a plate of something tasty for his own lunch - which turned out to be the okonomiyaki so we had to move on <a href="http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150311659725130.419202.277579055129">to Okan</a> to try one. We bickered amiably about that too - Fi wanted tofu, I opted for pork and kimchi (wouldn't you?) and won this time. Again, good but I've had better - a bit too much gloopy sauce on top and the bottom was slightly burnt but it looked amazing and the eggy/cabbagey bit was great. £7.95.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQdrV2s-mgSL35QQT-_FshU8LRfivqWGWFhvpZ9rRsIKYYQeEpktIc5NAj0RHbl26XRf9rDPLSDzsL3rBJ4Dz6k2nGh-3Grk5HE_i1thHG8-5N3vHkI4Bj9H5WnSogPusmiyW6_MncCA8/s1600/honest+burger.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQdrV2s-mgSL35QQT-_FshU8LRfivqWGWFhvpZ9rRsIKYYQeEpktIc5NAj0RHbl26XRf9rDPLSDzsL3rBJ4Dz6k2nGh-3Grk5HE_i1thHG8-5N3vHkI4Bj9H5WnSogPusmiyW6_MncCA8/s320/honest+burger.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5673862420165012178" /></a><br />By this time were were totally stuffed but the queues at Honest Burgers had disappeared and we couldn't miss that burger. Which was awesome - fabulously beefy with a gorgeous light bun and hopelessly moreish triple cooked chips with rosemary salt. They very sweetly divided it into two for us to share. That was £9.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxRHK5Amx-wGiTgMShVOby1_gEVGSlnyZT_SoujggWdeoM81idNSYdMng1wEb9RBSmZD9ALgryd3og8b2UWyXlHVn9-29ZM_A5UZzzM2LIkv7uYlmb71GvalYBp_CpAgZpzpvtR9FhtIM/s1600/toaster.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxRHK5Amx-wGiTgMShVOby1_gEVGSlnyZT_SoujggWdeoM81idNSYdMng1wEb9RBSmZD9ALgryd3og8b2UWyXlHVn9-29ZM_A5UZzzM2LIkv7uYlmb71GvalYBp_CpAgZpzpvtR9FhtIM/s320/toaster.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5673862933455822962" /></a><br />So we never got back to the tasting (I went clothes shopping instead, always a bad idea when you're feeling feckless) but I think we did Brixton Village proud. You should try at least two places if you go - there are many more tempting ones as you can see above and in <a href="http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/2011/oct/09/jay-rayner-brixton-village-unit">this review</a> Jay Rayner wrote for the Observer and this one by Marina O'Loughlin in <a href="http://www.metro.co.uk/lifestyle/restaurants/868402-brixton-village-is-a-remarkable-place-even-if-there-are-compromises">Metro</a>. And some fantastic food shopping to be had around the various food and home stalls. I can't wait to go back.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsBcifg2SEq9DFSlSsBaifFb0v4jmkNXA-fa7VzhbUlBlvVEKWJzo0Rcz0PtRcOKcfLNKHL5RlpZw6j9VBya7HCuWKWDL-43gtB6xRxsDw_qi-THCEpph5WTd8eLAbQNlO5dcpqZlFKKs/s1600/cushion+shop.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsBcifg2SEq9DFSlSsBaifFb0v4jmkNXA-fa7VzhbUlBlvVEKWJzo0Rcz0PtRcOKcfLNKHL5RlpZw6j9VBya7HCuWKWDL-43gtB6xRxsDw_qi-THCEpph5WTd8eLAbQNlO5dcpqZlFKKs/s320/cushion+shop.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5673863322998845698" /></a><br />NB We went on a Thursday afternoon - I suspect it gets a lot more hectic at weekends.Fiona Becketthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12970779962455905201noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4917691940652886496.post-68140663162920282102011-11-03T07:46:00.013+00:002011-11-05T06:51:57.116+00:00An Epic Breakfast at Hawksmoor Guildhall<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKh-0SxyVOiD2WMlnzVFxInIcWN5EQpNWmblFd_AcTylXdPYSnK0zyqhclF6kwJtJm2ajmTm6g_uGdv5bXjp4Vc_LeMfjRS60-hMY3wWoyPVIB-n7dd3jILHFRpox09cj6JuxwMTsbN0Q/s1600/bloody+mary+buffet.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKh-0SxyVOiD2WMlnzVFxInIcWN5EQpNWmblFd_AcTylXdPYSnK0zyqhclF6kwJtJm2ajmTm6g_uGdv5bXjp4Vc_LeMfjRS60-hMY3wWoyPVIB-n7dd3jILHFRpox09cj6JuxwMTsbN0Q/s320/bloody+mary+buffet.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5670675932037818658" /></a><br />I debated (for about 30 seconds) whether I should blog about the new <a href="http://thehawksmoor.co.uk/">Hawksmoor </a>Guildhall breakfast. I am, after all, intimately related to the joint owner Will Beckett ('Will’s mum' being the moniker by which I’m most commonly known these days). But I’m so fired up about the place and the food which is actually masterminded not by Will but his business partner Huw Gott and chef Richard Turner, that I couldn’t resist.<br /><br />Full English takes on another meaning at Hawksmoor. Those of you who have already experienced the brunch at their first Spitalfields restaurant will be familiar with the outsize bacon chops, steaks, and HkMuffin (Hawksmoor’s cheeky take on the Egg McMuffin) which make it unnecessary to eat for the rest of the day. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTx8vt_d-cHX-wMdOlmCI7l0oL0tgxUxao86d8KsKJjNAAdo5OJezGC_jEHsgB9Nia9m2yK8hIGaj8GtAMyeVN3AeTkKQthCAaIiElY0VdMCwSRLFlKG1Pc8quN3UTv5zVcMs-y-wW8tY/s1600/devilled+kidneys.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTx8vt_d-cHX-wMdOlmCI7l0oL0tgxUxao86d8KsKJjNAAdo5OJezGC_jEHsgB9Nia9m2yK8hIGaj8GtAMyeVN3AeTkKQthCAaIiElY0VdMCwSRLFlKG1Pc8quN3UTv5zVcMs-y-wW8tY/s320/devilled+kidneys.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5670676255477436386" /></a><br />All make an appearance at the new Guildhall restaurant along with British stalwarts such as kippers, omelette Arnold Bennett and - what I decided to eat before I even sat down - the Edwardian favourite devilled veal kidneys on toast (above). <br /><br />Just to demonstrate I haven’t entirely abandoned my critical faculties I would say the devilling was a touch fierce for 9am in the morning, even penetrating my current cold but the kidneys were perfect, the saucing just right and the toast firm enough not to disintegrate under the onslaught. Partnered with a side of Hawksmoor hash browns (the best I’ve eaten, a must if you go there) it made a bracing start to the day.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2qDsrCngRkV5fTPPNOANb-A9w_gxZ6r9uvpi_X5LGPJOfcA_3mE2pwfO4zZuCVuh99sLKur0JbDUbSVoOYTwaAkQJeh3qv-Z1vKXGUneG0G4PElI66-VBVfE5__2mzQxf7oEwJpYb_-U/s1600/hash+browns.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2qDsrCngRkV5fTPPNOANb-A9w_gxZ6r9uvpi_X5LGPJOfcA_3mE2pwfO4zZuCVuh99sLKur0JbDUbSVoOYTwaAkQJeh3qv-Z1vKXGUneG0G4PElI66-VBVfE5__2mzQxf7oEwJpYb_-U/s320/hash+browns.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5670678019063324386" /></a><br />I also sneaked a bit of the Marmalade French toast which hadn’t penetrated my radar which is served improbably but successfully with hot chocolate given the Flat White treatment. Drenched in custard spiked with Pedro Ximenez sherry it probably runs perilously close to breaching most City firms’ anti-alcohol policies.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix-stwfqZvdiza1M-fDmO4Mz0KEe3_Ct4Ob3QYvHkV23I1yL8iLWLFbLIBlGALLDBau-O_tQWJL2NRjXhbgLM1SO6Ht-DoSXcJeNgiKeBiPOQBUWIy2kDgJwdsYrVcxSr4vY_4t9Fy6os/s1600/Hawksmoor+doughnut.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix-stwfqZvdiza1M-fDmO4Mz0KEe3_Ct4Ob3QYvHkV23I1yL8iLWLFbLIBlGALLDBau-O_tQWJL2NRjXhbgLM1SO6Ht-DoSXcJeNgiKeBiPOQBUWIy2kDgJwdsYrVcxSr4vY_4t9Fy6os/s320/Hawksmoor+doughnut.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5670677690617698850" /></a><br />There had been reports - and <a href="http://yfrog.com/h8qx4qkj">somewhat unflattering pictures</a> - of the doughnuts which do have the unfortunate appearance of spewing something unspeakable but believe me They Are Good, oozing with creamy vanilla custard (they like custard at Hawksmoor) and fresh-tasting plum jam. I also managed a bite (just a bite - honest) of a melty chocolate Danish-cum-pain-au-chocolat, an outrageously rich toffee-pecan thingy and an almond pastry stuffed with an indecent amount of almond paste.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI1QLUJOAbuvIunDF19UFoPW3ta27zlyOlV-0exitzyGSI-NLkcF13fUMb3x_kTetIewAj4s8zV4GrV7IaSpMuncpknfF2ELCd9YKAllHTKk4suaW0lYKNJqGDv-8qrpdf_B9kMQjpa9A/s1600/hawksmoor+pastries.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI1QLUJOAbuvIunDF19UFoPW3ta27zlyOlV-0exitzyGSI-NLkcF13fUMb3x_kTetIewAj4s8zV4GrV7IaSpMuncpknfF2ELCd9YKAllHTKk4suaW0lYKNJqGDv-8qrpdf_B9kMQjpa9A/s320/hawksmoor+pastries.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5670679937169547618" /></a><br />On the credit side I managed to resist anything boozy (French toast aside) including the new Cornflake Hardshake (cornflake milkshake with added bourbon), my favourite marmalade cocktail, which you can also order at Seven Dials, and the Bloody Mary ‘buffet’ (pic at top of post) where you can go up and mix one to your own taste, opting instead for an invigoratingly healthy orange juice blend (carrot, orange, yellow pepper and ginger) of a livid colour that might come as a bit of a shock if you have a hangover. You may want to wear your shades.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjztaX9VrRvdTr65eLF3cq7rL9KTpKCOZDQagsatR29lWtFcOGD-3oKFa138im4ypbcjH7Lk5uwkQiAeVVT2HEpA9W4asAJOpHK64woRT-oV5W9Jmk-rjB1tzAPhP_HESk90ryvm8kjwMI/s1600/orange+blend+juice.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjztaX9VrRvdTr65eLF3cq7rL9KTpKCOZDQagsatR29lWtFcOGD-3oKFa138im4ypbcjH7Lk5uwkQiAeVVT2HEpA9W4asAJOpHK64woRT-oV5W9Jmk-rjB1tzAPhP_HESk90ryvm8kjwMI/s320/orange+blend+juice.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5670680344581447074" /></a><br />Trying very hard to be objective, I would love Hawksmoor even if I wasn’t related to it. Theres an Alice in Wonderland ‘eat me’ edge of mania about the food which owes a great deal to the inventiveness and greed of Huw and Rich. And the staff are always so incredibly friendly - though you would, I suppose, be nice to the boss’s mum wouldn’t you . . . <br /><br />PS Nearly forgot to say. They also have a couple of dinner dishes they don’t do at Seven Dials and Spitalfields including <a href="http://www.matchingfoodandwine.com/articles/20111104">veal chops and oysters</a>, a ginormous mixed grill (to pre-order) and a seven course beef menu to share for parties of 8-10 including the outrageously good beef shin macaroni which you can find - <span style="font-style:italic;">ta-daaa</span> - in the new <a href="http://hawksmoor.bigcartel.com/product/hawksmoor-at-home">Hawksmoor at Home</a> book in which I'm proud to have played a small supporting role.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7SXIVMEvbBw_w7JPGu3D2plaqGRTJvr4ltXoA-oLisS3p1ImLgfZkGODlgzUVLrzrAeryvl7eSwuO1bpH8FVDoCyKZ7RY8Cq5Hh37ilCBLRkSK2ULXaVV6iOwozTjbsZB5dBGcm4ZBmQ/s1600/9781848093355-large.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 179px; height: 225px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7SXIVMEvbBw_w7JPGu3D2plaqGRTJvr4ltXoA-oLisS3p1ImLgfZkGODlgzUVLrzrAeryvl7eSwuO1bpH8FVDoCyKZ7RY8Cq5Hh37ilCBLRkSK2ULXaVV6iOwozTjbsZB5dBGcm4ZBmQ/s320/9781848093355-large.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5670681094381333970" /></a><br />PPS Hawksmoor Guildhall is only open from Mondays to Fridays<br /><br /><span style="font-style:italic;">Disclaimer: I ate at Hawksmoor - and generally do - as a guest of my son. So take maternal fondness into account.</span>Fiona Becketthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12970779962455905201noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4917691940652886496.post-51207914567957501232011-10-28T13:04:00.008+01:002011-10-28T20:28:46.926+01:00How good are food apps?<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcusIbf_s-GFAvkW023Y6IXjBjVEcIXy3pJdibloEBWXNgvXu0kSicb0lsEW8jBcN0hMxp1BJHl1elE6iXf0HtCpcVXkOTMSvQ_i9k-GeLWccZ89aXU3p0DgLcV4bDfhQfQpTCwPNcvJ8/s1600/mzl.tebhiteb.480x480-75.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcusIbf_s-GFAvkW023Y6IXjBjVEcIXy3pJdibloEBWXNgvXu0kSicb0lsEW8jBcN0hMxp1BJHl1elE6iXf0HtCpcVXkOTMSvQ_i9k-GeLWccZ89aXU3p0DgLcV4bDfhQfQpTCwPNcvJ8/s320/mzl.tebhiteb.480x480-75.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5668594929099272818" /></a><br />If you've got an iPad you've probably been as tempted as me by the avalanche of food apps that you can now download. But how good are they as a way of learning about ingredients, cooking techniques and recipes? I wrote about <a href="http://foodandwinefinds.blogspot.com/2010/12/food-apps-on-iphone-and-ipad.html">some</a> shortly after I got my iPad. Here are the apps I've acquired more recently and how I rate them:<br /><br />Donna Hay ***** (Free - for the moment)<br />I'd been wondering whether Donna Hay would do an app and now I've seen it can understand why it took so long. this is the most beautiful, sophisticated, mouthwatering on-line magazine around. There are some great interactive sections and some spectacular video effects as a tiered white cake gets covered with pink macarons and a whole ricotta disappears scoop by scoop off a plate. The photography is utterly stunning, the recipes have Hay's trademark style and simplicity. The first issue is free - you're bound to want to buy the second and subsequent ones. <br /><br />Green Kitchen *** (£2.99)<br />A very pretty app designed for the iPad with an easy to navigate grid of healthy (and quite hardcore) vegetarian recipes. If I have a criticism it would be that the recipes themselves aren't quite as assured as those from established cookery writers. I like the look of the Baked Pistachio and Herb Felafel and Rustic Potato Pizza, though (rather less so the Bean Brownies . . . ) Green Kitchen also has an equally attractive <a href="http://www.greenkitchenstories.com/">website</a>.<br /><br />Baking with Dorie **** £8.99<br />I'm a big fan of Dorie Greenspan, a baking superstar in the states (and an incredibly nice person) and you can't fault the content of her new app. But with 20 baking lessons and over 100 videos it's a monster to download at the rather sluggish broadband speed we have at home and I lost it altogether when I was updating my iPad software and had to reload it. I'm not sure I wouldn't rather have Dorie in book mode really. (Her best known is <a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/Baking-Home-Yours-Dorie-Greenspan/dp/0618443363/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1319814479&sr=8-1">Baking: from my home to yours</a> and her latest, which this post has reminded me to order, <a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/0618875530/ref=s9_simh_gw_p14_d0_g14_i1?pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&pf_rd_s=center-2&pf_rd_r=0J0WAVV3ZRPHSG7WF5QJ&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=467128533&pf_rd_i=468294">Around my French Table</a>)<br /><br />River Cottage Every Day *** (£1.99)<br />Another iPhone app that doesn't work quite so well on the iPad. It's also annoying that you have to sign up with your personal details once you've downloaded it - presumably so that you get to be on the River Cottage mailing list though if you've paid your money I think you're entitled to instant access to the content. Nice to have ideas for how to use what's in season though and I like the well shot 'how to videos' including how to prepare a pheasant, how to fillet a fish and how to build a wood-fired oven. <br /><br />My kitchen table * (Free)<br />A sample selection of recipes from well-loved TV presenters including Mary Berry, Antonio Carluccio and Madhur Jaffrey. Designed for the iPhone and obviously based on their books it doesn't work too well on the iPad and took a fair time to download. Not especially easy to use and there are some weird anomalies like recommending Ainsley's Chilli-glazed mango with yoghurt as a good accompaniment for Antonio's pappardelle with meat sauce. And the shopping lists don't seem to come up yet. Obviously the idea is to get you to buy other apps on the back of it like Mary Berry's My Cakes and Desserts (£1.99) but I'm not sure I'd bother.Fiona Becketthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12970779962455905201noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4917691940652886496.post-50340347056968212812011-10-20T07:48:00.018+01:002011-10-20T09:50:55.781+01:00The 10 best things we ate in Paris<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZxsUg-r-Oq49uGaW7-vXn6j_cNGOb_fASKoXq0Uq1H_duRa60_SEEsZs1TZM-I9mfgbqHQNpcCYhippk5xXIuTJHmtRR4V09AxLINsryhUpM70q11cRCBnzu1ancAf6Jl336NDExPZtU/s1600/red+mullet+at+Rino.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZxsUg-r-Oq49uGaW7-vXn6j_cNGOb_fASKoXq0Uq1H_duRa60_SEEsZs1TZM-I9mfgbqHQNpcCYhippk5xXIuTJHmtRR4V09AxLINsryhUpM70q11cRCBnzu1ancAf6Jl336NDExPZtU/s320/red+mullet+at+Rino.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5665475880726696914" /></a><br />The week we've just spent in Paris was not a great gastronomic pilgrimage. We actually went to celebrate our 20th wedding anniversary and to check out the flourishing natural wine scene in which we're both interested. We deliberately <a href="http://foodandwinefinds.blogspot.com/2011/10/paris-without-reservation.html">didn't make advance reservations</a> or hit any two or three star restaurants, preferring the casual informality of bistros and wine bars. But we still ate well and here are - in no particular order - the 10 best dishes we had.<br /><br />Steak frites at <a href="http://www.davidlebovitz.com/2007/09/caf-des-muses/">Café des Musées</a><br />Every trip to Paris should include a classic steak and chips and this was a cracker. Admittedly there was more fat than the average steak you'd get in a British restaurant but the taste was superb and the accompanying sauce béarnaise and very crisp hand-cut chips just perfect. The only thing that spoilt it were the loud Americans on a neighbouring table.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht-3mEsbtXEPlWWATsMfiR8MXww1pWdEZDQS3dhkBnwFsiOm0Q5JZDnKXHZf6tMSdbYsPOXgKJmOdlPQ-IZKaRUccJ1d6wuAe2cpAuZ71s1ptJVZmcg-i48ccgiW4SqT4LhiDMY4cb_8M/s1600/steak+at+cafe+des+musees.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht-3mEsbtXEPlWWATsMfiR8MXww1pWdEZDQS3dhkBnwFsiOm0Q5JZDnKXHZf6tMSdbYsPOXgKJmOdlPQ-IZKaRUccJ1d6wuAe2cpAuZ71s1ptJVZmcg-i48ccgiW4SqT4LhiDMY4cb_8M/s320/steak+at+cafe+des+musees.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5665472944949833554" /></a><br />Radis beurre at <a href="http://www.yelp.com/biz/aux-deux-amis-paris">Aux Deux Amis</a><br />Another French classic given a contemporary twist by including heirloom varieties at Aux Deux Amis, a tiny bistro on the Oberkampf (11e). Beautifully presented - I also love the whipped butter and the smoked sea salt. An ideal light start to a meal<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh02XRb3mEQY5QdekqMb4dMQA6GB9hEZnZYKUOxDI1HEQiSfOkhAQ6okQFEJeuKHsgQWBJW3bn8OKQPmPikxI0FQSR2dhWTvOsXM8O6YZ6BwuNrarUIfJ6j9gK74NdeAizAi8owNBEGz6Q/s1600/radishes+at+aux+deux+amis.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh02XRb3mEQY5QdekqMb4dMQA6GB9hEZnZYKUOxDI1HEQiSfOkhAQ6okQFEJeuKHsgQWBJW3bn8OKQPmPikxI0FQSR2dhWTvOsXM8O6YZ6BwuNrarUIfJ6j9gK74NdeAizAi8owNBEGz6Q/s320/radishes+at+aux+deux+amis.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5665474833381431058" /></a><br />Brandade and salad at Aux Deux Amis<br />OK, this doesn't look much but you have to trust me. Brandade which is made from salt cod normally comes as a sloppy purée you have with toast but this had been turned into a deconstructed fish pie. The old fashioned lettuce salad with it was the perfect accompaniment. I'm going to try this at home<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHUxRUwLcyCOTcwHlMmyfSfhfivKrsThGV3oWhF-T5xZLc1fk82LZmu2_GVHJcYygGgVTw3Wo0KNm7t-O98XhfuqyHi4t4AmfDI4gOYo-49GjpLxMgNlh6i5B7e77Byx-rvIiK1zcrrbk/s1600/brandade+aux+deux+amis.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHUxRUwLcyCOTcwHlMmyfSfhfivKrsThGV3oWhF-T5xZLc1fk82LZmu2_GVHJcYygGgVTw3Wo0KNm7t-O98XhfuqyHi4t4AmfDI4gOYo-49GjpLxMgNlh6i5B7e77Byx-rvIiK1zcrrbk/s320/brandade+aux+deux+amis.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5665474102630010882" /></a><br />Hake with crushed jerusalem artichokes, mint and olives at <a href="http://rino-restaurant.com/">Rino</a><br />My husband who is more of a carnivore than I am probably wouldn't agree but this was the best dish at the best meal we had all week - at a tiny modern bistro in the 11th which serves a very short set-price lunch on Fridays and Saturdays for 20€ for two courses. A wonderfully subtle, imaginative combination of flavours. We ate it very slowly to make it last longer.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGLIHGAZOkST1aIKCISUBHHKRXWJNbjIma3rck_vh2Ms8C4RhKzVIJhvUjODLt-Cf1MgO3cLG6HTJfeNtR5azq3HY49OnLY63F7nAm09wxkkzYw-iMI0jtrJXtt3hbzKeLxS4CJFiBFio/s1600/hake+at+Rino.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGLIHGAZOkST1aIKCISUBHHKRXWJNbjIma3rck_vh2Ms8C4RhKzVIJhvUjODLt-Cf1MgO3cLG6HTJfeNtR5azq3HY49OnLY63F7nAm09wxkkzYw-iMI0jtrJXtt3hbzKeLxS4CJFiBFio/s320/hake+at+Rino.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5665475550046023906" /></a><br />Red mullet with grains at Rino (top of post)<br />This was the first course at the same meal - red mullet with what they described as a 'soupe' of grains and lentils and some chard. Again, very clean and pure with a slightly Asian twist I couldn't quite put my finger on.<br /><br />Joue de veau at <a href="http://parisbymouth.com/le-baratin-2/">Le Baratin</a><br />Le Baratin is probably Paris's most famous natural wine bistro - with a reputation for famously rude service as you can read <a href="http://winemadenaturally.blogspot.com/2011/10/why-you-shouldnt-be-scared-of-le.html">here</a>. But we found them politeness itself and the food was great. There were two main courses involving cheeks - ox cheek and veal cheek - both stellar. The ox cheek was better with the wine we ordered but the veal cheek was the lighter and more elegant dish.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh35JuhAldqViK1SBqXvsXJbzLejr-YUxVpCSuIrKlpPYq-77asrL-Vomu5CQ7doWfOYBa93ZDs3UdX6uoNhYU1CI4o_i_ocLr_1NZcd7Uo2DTN3e3P9S6sSREWaZ9-V7S8dXGYL4QlrjE/s1600/joue+de+veau+le+baratin.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh35JuhAldqViK1SBqXvsXJbzLejr-YUxVpCSuIrKlpPYq-77asrL-Vomu5CQ7doWfOYBa93ZDs3UdX6uoNhYU1CI4o_i_ocLr_1NZcd7Uo2DTN3e3P9S6sSREWaZ9-V7S8dXGYL4QlrjE/s320/joue+de+veau+le+baratin.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5665477020803081378" /></a><br />Saucisse en cocotte at <a href="http://parisbymouth.com/our-guide-to-paris-vivant/">Vivant</a><br />Vivant, in the rue des Petites Ecuries in the 10th, is the new up and coming rival to Le Baratin. You can read my review <a href="http://winemadenaturally.blogspot.com/2011/10/vivant-pariss-newest-natural-wine.html">here</a> but I particularly liked this dish of robust Toulouse sausage served with all kinds of amazing root veg - beets, radish and turnips - steamed in their own juices en cocotte. Much lighter than the classic sausage and mash.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAVAKch2v5SkrX670f3975UMd7YWAF-wlyVVHCqjpuqVE_qtHlJD8VlppbMDjAOBr0Hy_RavLq2FKzi10gAaRxuOS4gqhs1pe0YpZHWgQVS9ofl-Bdvq0-Yq_WwJlK269_dq1qMyhxOXw/s1600/saucisse+at+Vivant.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAVAKch2v5SkrX670f3975UMd7YWAF-wlyVVHCqjpuqVE_qtHlJD8VlppbMDjAOBr0Hy_RavLq2FKzi10gAaRxuOS4gqhs1pe0YpZHWgQVS9ofl-Bdvq0-Yq_WwJlK269_dq1qMyhxOXw/s320/saucisse+at+Vivant.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5665478279831125298" /></a><br />Oxtail croque at <a href="http://www.yelp.com/biz/l-avant-comptoir-paris">l’Avant Comptoir</a><br />We were pretty pleased with ourselves at squeezing into a small corner of the bar at Yves Camdeborde's ultra fashionable L'Avant Comptoir but it took a while for us to work out how to order. You think at first there's just the regulation charcuterie but there are lots of imaginative small dishes or tapas listed on cards that hang from the ceiling. This was my favourite - an oxtail 'croque' (fried sandwich) with horseradish chantilly (whipped cream). Totally delicious.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLnO-SNUtXqCyF_a7mC6T3-fXg7cHfXzHMxWPkqw_OsZ-0ZBsaXN2v7g7ubxh4iNVVmJuHGyF4MXBmVG4shbyv8Xdv1himTx6kJ77Yv0Yhe-E3lkZhxG0GkE75Waq5Q9pdoebG1Qe4198/s1600/oxtail+croque+at+l%2527avant+comptoir.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLnO-SNUtXqCyF_a7mC6T3-fXg7cHfXzHMxWPkqw_OsZ-0ZBsaXN2v7g7ubxh4iNVVmJuHGyF4MXBmVG4shbyv8Xdv1himTx6kJ77Yv0Yhe-E3lkZhxG0GkE75Waq5Q9pdoebG1Qe4198/s320/oxtail+croque+at+l%2527avant+comptoir.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5665479484510929666" /></a><br />Poached pear at <a href="http://parisbymouth.com/philou/">Philou</a><br />As you may have gathered we're not great ones for desserts - and were eating so much it was probably just as well - but this was a really lovely poached pear with salted caramel with some kind of baba-ish thingy we ate at a newish bistro Philou, just off the Canal St Martin.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGT0PmLUZKae_oeH8TZnXijxnS90m3vo_f1ibLOZiZrXgQIZE62O3f-WxppzguuV_d6FtOPXEWKKUHx0n9fZ__v0c78_ow7e19RINIOZL1n-7o_fq6cAOj8XkcACJvXjIEu1MRAlqpnYY/s1600/poached+pear+at+philou.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGT0PmLUZKae_oeH8TZnXijxnS90m3vo_f1ibLOZiZrXgQIZE62O3f-WxppzguuV_d6FtOPXEWKKUHx0n9fZ__v0c78_ow7e19RINIOZL1n-7o_fq6cAOj8XkcACJvXjIEu1MRAlqpnYY/s320/poached+pear+at+philou.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5665480180500448066" /></a><br />Pistachio eclairs at <a href="http://www.boulangerie-patisserie-artisanale-paris1.com/">Gosselin</a><br />And finally we did succumb to the pastry shops just once when we'd had a lighter than usual lunch, picking a pistachio eclair (at the back) from the multi-coloured selection at Gosselin in the rue St Honoré. So much more stylish than a cupcake. Just as well we didn't make patisserie the main focus of the trip . . .<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsJciSFyZHdfmzZkZKSTexF4zUpDJ0uqhm89kGUp6gSWS7aovcAyY2pjQZv-sGJooZCpWBJZMNH_aVVE3IripRxYxJQ2m3FBRtdMk4_7sn7QV-1nfzIrd5R_CI8tZ3YmsD5zCjzVzKaUo/s1600/eclairs+at+gosselin.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsJciSFyZHdfmzZkZKSTexF4zUpDJ0uqhm89kGUp6gSWS7aovcAyY2pjQZv-sGJooZCpWBJZMNH_aVVE3IripRxYxJQ2m3FBRtdMk4_7sn7QV-1nfzIrd5R_CI8tZ3YmsD5zCjzVzKaUo/s320/eclairs+at+gosselin.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5665482007349745362" /></a>Fiona Becketthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12970779962455905201noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4917691940652886496.post-79135507689932417412011-10-17T06:34:00.009+01:002011-10-18T06:34:52.360+01:00Paris without a reservation<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOnJ1LmERrxlXN1jX8AuAmMEC-gGRPBAK8wjMo_8zO97aFzEHVU0ahkeC8r9-J95syN9WfDr2mpPeAA-hjUbcXK6EDW1zAtI5iSeLtzUTxgOcWJRd38gJtjXDBSteNu7FLYOzj7Yp16qA/s1600/le+vieux+comptoir.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOnJ1LmERrxlXN1jX8AuAmMEC-gGRPBAK8wjMo_8zO97aFzEHVU0ahkeC8r9-J95syN9WfDr2mpPeAA-hjUbcXK6EDW1zAtI5iSeLtzUTxgOcWJRd38gJtjXDBSteNu7FLYOzj7Yp16qA/s320/le+vieux+comptoir.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5664344549336910610" /></a><br />We took a different approach to our latest trip to Paris which was not to make any reservations. Partly because we'd had to cancel two trips here already and didn't want to tempt fate by booking yet another swathe of tables we might have to cancel and partly because the plan was to visit as many small bistros and wine bars as possible. Actually I tell a lie. We booked a table for our first night but we've booked nothing else more than a day ahead. For hard to get reservations like <span style="font-style:italic;">Le Baratin</span> we rang up earlier the same day and still got a table.<br /><br />So far it's worked like a dream. There's been nowhere we haven't managed to get into including Inaki Aizpitarte's new wine bar <span style="font-style:italic;">Le Dauphin</span>, Yves Camdeborde's <span style="font-style:italic;">L'Avant Comptoir</span>, <span style="font-style:italic;">Vivant</span> and <span style="font-style:italic;">Rino</span>, a restaurant we'd spent hours trying to get a booking for our last trip without success. A lot of these don't take bookings anyway or are so small that they won't take reservations on the phone especially from tourists<br /><br />It's made me think that we go about visiting cities quite the wrong way these days, frantically trying to get a reservation at the most sought after restaurants and bars. Committing ourselves to a particular time slot which might not suit us because we're doing something else more interesting at the time. Squeezing in two meals a day when we might only fancy eating one. Stressing because we'll not be able to write up the hottest restaurants on our blog or for a future feature. <br /><br />What we've done is wander in and have a glass of wine and a plate of charcuterie or couple of small plates then find somewhere else to have a main course or skip that and find a gorgeous cake from some enticing patisserie. We have had some fixed price meals - mainly at lunchtime - but have then eaten lightly in the evening.<br /><br />Of course it's helped that there are only two of us and that we've been here for the week which removes the sense of urgency from the exercise but even if I was staying 3 to 4 nights another time I think - hope - I'd deploy the same tactics. It's also hugely reduced the cost of eating out. <br /><br />What you do need so far as Paris is concerned is to come at the right time of the week. And that, unfortunately, is not at the weekend when many restaurants are shut or insanely busy but midweek from Tuesday to Friday (Mondays are also a popular closing day). Even then Parisien restaurants have erratic opening hours so do your homework, find out when the places you might fancy going are open and have a back up plan of a restaurant you could go to nearby if you don't manage to walk in. I admit I'm lucky to have a husband who likes nothing better than devising such strategies. <br /><br />You also need to be prepared to eat at lunchtime rather than in the evening and earlier than might seem comfortable - the French start lunch at 12 so 12-12.30 is a good time to get a table. The added bonus is that the lunch menu is often cheaper than the dinner one.<br /><br />There's always the delightful possibility you might walk past somewhere that's not on anyone's radar, where the locals themselves eat and which is a genuine find. One of the main problems these days - and I'm guilty of this myself - is that everyone goes to the same restaurants so your fellow diners are likely to be food critics and bloggers. Is that would you really want when you're exploring a city?<br /><br /><span style="font-style:italic;">So how do you handle weekends - or midweek trips - to major destinations like Paris or New York? Plan ahead, leave things to chance or a bit of both? </span>Fiona Becketthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12970779962455905201noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4917691940652886496.post-54467629177879664142011-10-09T14:18:00.013+01:002011-10-10T13:38:25.054+01:00Lahloo Pantry: a thoroughly modern tearoom<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja17Zvx2eSNuGSOVx26Rli0SiO-vWDDF4koUQH-NyZtduVx0oRTqTmUEmNdNOKxnZPF09uNS4yxU5ROYzIHXoMl6Dk48p8eKmiJ8o3F8PLUPH4YTjvusVYB06BJ05MlrdxCkArJRHCEHQ/s1600/lahloo+tarts+and+salads.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja17Zvx2eSNuGSOVx26Rli0SiO-vWDDF4koUQH-NyZtduVx0oRTqTmUEmNdNOKxnZPF09uNS4yxU5ROYzIHXoMl6Dk48p8eKmiJ8o3F8PLUPH4YTjvusVYB06BJ05MlrdxCkArJRHCEHQ/s320/lahloo+tarts+and+salads.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5661488650646335458" /></a><br />I'd better get the disclaimer out of the way first. Kate and Neil of Lahloo Tea live practically opposite me so I'm hardly likely to diss their new venture, Lahloo Pantry which opened in Bristol yesterday. But having been there at lunchtime today I can honestly say that it's brilliant - an all day café where you can drink really good tea and eat (and this is what worries me) wickedly delicious cake.<br /><br />It's in a former Asian deli on Kings Road just off Boyces Avenue in Clifton village. Upstairs there's a communal table which would be fabulous for someone coming in on their own to sit and read. Downstairs, a cosy cafe with tables outside when it's fine.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGW9b6cE9SPBeCwGBJtpcmpAOuC6-QmoW7WmiMKbccpjepYQuKYvmjgujMkL-A6D__3DeDvdkC1Yc3sR6pNNREuxyDH_NWXezieAeim3v3PJ5iuu8cyymLWFlEndPRqxgtI7oNlmhvIOY/s1600/lahloo+tearoom+interior+.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGW9b6cE9SPBeCwGBJtpcmpAOuC6-QmoW7WmiMKbccpjepYQuKYvmjgujMkL-A6D__3DeDvdkC1Yc3sR6pNNREuxyDH_NWXezieAeim3v3PJ5iuu8cyymLWFlEndPRqxgtI7oNlmhvIOY/s320/lahloo+tearoom+interior+.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5661489446053554946" /></a><br />You can have breakfast, lunch or tea so at 12.30 my daughter and I had lunch and breakfast respectively. A perfectly wobbly smoked haddock tart with a range of salads in her case; soft boiled eggs and soldiers in mine. Or soft boiled in theory. The kitchen was struggling with an induction hob which was turning out one egg uncooked and one hard (ironic when they'd produced cakes as perfect as these chai brulée tarts). They may have given up and be serving scrambled eggs by the time you read this.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1QcEjiAK3Priiwtdky2F0pPau7LjPDOHL6nniSNwovfFvlEwZGB9kps6qYZbBfI80bL_llb7q4qWlSjP2F7AGaGQQdtDCPRScTa5cBFkqbpg-nVCnM-LitxXtqLiId1_-TV9prgwBe1s/s1600/chai+brulee+tarts.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1QcEjiAK3Priiwtdky2F0pPau7LjPDOHL6nniSNwovfFvlEwZGB9kps6qYZbBfI80bL_llb7q4qWlSjP2F7AGaGQQdtDCPRScTa5cBFkqbpg-nVCnM-LitxXtqLiId1_-TV9prgwBe1s/s320/chai+brulee+tarts.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5661490463729826818" /></a><br />They will apparently be doing takeaway (takeaway cake!) once the containers arrive (another glitch) and you can, of course, buy one of the very beautiful tins of tea you can see lining the walls.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN3ii5zRj355gH_Ewd6ImpkR7M63b149bd5-9iS_alpPTUr495BZsrT6Y-58wekfiGbAXuWsRbP_LTEHBvdlvQ0yGThJKh4SGI_dWTOBaQOy0BxHagCPXEvEh__erN7pp1Gd2QeVoUFo8/s1600/lahloo+tea.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN3ii5zRj355gH_Ewd6ImpkR7M63b149bd5-9iS_alpPTUr495BZsrT6Y-58wekfiGbAXuWsRbP_LTEHBvdlvQ0yGThJKh4SGI_dWTOBaQOy0BxHagCPXEvEh__erN7pp1Gd2QeVoUFo8/s320/lahloo+tea.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5661489134268802834" /></a><br />If you're familiar with smart London cafés like Peyton and Byrne or Konditor and Cook you'll feel quite at home. This is a great addition to the Bristol eating out scene.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih4Hs2HexiyHgO-gyL0Zk-DqWbHTphCrxiHV7grDrsBjlLvWZG0JBp4YCGJrf8WuegkD0Xtzz5rrrMJcP76Jfo7S8P1SyhWDzph_zr5541_xsc9dEZsvT1iHNDkdfmBW0aBZSRiKo6bZI/s1600/tea+room+chef.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih4Hs2HexiyHgO-gyL0Zk-DqWbHTphCrxiHV7grDrsBjlLvWZG0JBp4YCGJrf8WuegkD0Xtzz5rrrMJcP76Jfo7S8P1SyhWDzph_zr5541_xsc9dEZsvT1iHNDkdfmBW0aBZSRiKo6bZI/s320/tea+room+chef.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5661489857668928482" /></a>Fiona Becketthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12970779962455905201noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4917691940652886496.post-63385404019891856552011-10-06T08:53:00.005+01:002011-10-06T10:30:33.233+01:00Zucca: an affordable smart London Italian<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoeSYueEqjnzbwUKMfhPmVLIJl0fk_u4yvhfLzeOk4pRZ8D4P6u_Fkl_Y-tjxJaRssdSr4key6MzkIs1KuDSYPN_6-IXLuNRqniblf8pTeWFZtaF-XejQde_Jo34TV4lqQeDudxNqQOqs/s1600/zucca+fritti.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoeSYueEqjnzbwUKMfhPmVLIJl0fk_u4yvhfLzeOk4pRZ8D4P6u_Fkl_Y-tjxJaRssdSr4key6MzkIs1KuDSYPN_6-IXLuNRqniblf8pTeWFZtaF-XejQde_Jo34TV4lqQeDudxNqQOqs/s320/zucca+fritti.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5659977022015749682" /></a><br /><a href="http://www.zuccalondon.com/">Zucca’s</a> been around for a good few months now so it’s hardly a find but because it’s off the beaten track for many London visitors - down the far end of Bermondsey Street, about a 10 minute walk from London Bridge - it might have escaped your notice.<br /><br />It’s worth the detour, as Michelin says. It’s a cool contemporary restaurant serving immaculately cooked modern Italian food at more than fair prices. It's also just been listed in the top 3 Italian restaurants in Europe by the World's 50 Best - a somewhat hyperbolic accolade but one which underlines that it is something special.<br /><br />We kicked off while we were waiting for the rest of our party with what must be a signature dish of ‘Zucca’ fritti (above) - perfectly cooked squash fritters intermingled with sage leaves which added a nice bitter note to what can be an oversweet and slightly bland veg.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4bYvtbpu_R3upUmTzvegdNmEl5v6KggnBzYB-_AbyUbw5OQJSMhh2fQjSvpsUUdxnbh4VdJ0c7z6h4z0oxI0cFcFwmaVFJbdPssqjWq2RroL3oH57I7VQI4qKo5Az_ePW_AdS_MGyb-o/s1600/seabass+carpaccio.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4bYvtbpu_R3upUmTzvegdNmEl5v6KggnBzYB-_AbyUbw5OQJSMhh2fQjSvpsUUdxnbh4VdJ0c7z6h4z0oxI0cFcFwmaVFJbdPssqjWq2RroL3oH57I7VQI4qKo5Az_ePW_AdS_MGyb-o/s320/seabass+carpaccio.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5659978428092719650" /></a><br />We then grazed through a few more antipasti - carpaccio of sea bass (above - stellar), bruschetta of smoked eel, mozzarella, yellow courgettes and sorrel (yum) and san daniele, ventricina and lardo (the least interesting of the four) - all of which were under a fiver.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj_a1ePq9JnLHelVTO3afm6Kai15UlIw530rNUbewEkukgFzrGajzYbPOCguxpt3127-6myuHEITDFuR4A9og39GKJwkH297C04fCjikdkw5esuSf2kGWby78EvsDkxiGp0Z9mUiIExxI/s1600/pappardelle+with+hare.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj_a1ePq9JnLHelVTO3afm6Kai15UlIw530rNUbewEkukgFzrGajzYbPOCguxpt3127-6myuHEITDFuR4A9og39GKJwkH297C04fCjikdkw5esuSf2kGWby78EvsDkxiGp0Z9mUiIExxI/s320/pappardelle+with+hare.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5660279653303045362" /></a><br />I wished for a moment I’d had my son’s pappardelle with hare ragu (above) which looked - and tasted - fabulous (pasta is one of the highspots at Zucca) but was more than happy with my <span style="font-style:italic;">cacciucco</span>, a Tuscan-style fish stew with couscous. And my husband, who always orders rabbit if it’s on the menu rated his slow cooked sweet and sour rabbit as good as his own - high praise indeed ;-).<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9Ipx9yhg7L_Ug6hiL6CSNrleQE2AjEc-wUrNWBDNmQsu-5p17qDsBRQZ-67Ixcpmayn9-N8nzx8x2AoQLFH1xO3d62ErgTCigpu0Q3nNHIhGiT6YKyTED94rOMZ3pEg5CTApFr_uYtz0/s1600/seafood+stew.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9Ipx9yhg7L_Ug6hiL6CSNrleQE2AjEc-wUrNWBDNmQsu-5p17qDsBRQZ-67Ixcpmayn9-N8nzx8x2AoQLFH1xO3d62ErgTCigpu0Q3nNHIhGiT6YKyTED94rOMZ3pEg5CTApFr_uYtz0/s320/seafood+stew.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5660280025050093938" /></a><br />We shared a delicious crumbly walnut cake (below), an Italian spin on bakewell tart and some icecreams which were all top drawer and not too sweet.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYqEh_f_sdQp97hExMdLvSA3xA2GRO0oxf04kIdbwRgORFV3_ZFbAw7JMdAjEv-cBRUH1Pu6SNeon5j1iNHyMy27wIkbawOvdG_Wbfv6bt4fnEfFZ4nS39E3C_WpVeTf9GZnQW0y5NlQ4/s1600/walnut+cake.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYqEh_f_sdQp97hExMdLvSA3xA2GRO0oxf04kIdbwRgORFV3_ZFbAw7JMdAjEv-cBRUH1Pu6SNeon5j1iNHyMy27wIkbawOvdG_Wbfv6bt4fnEfFZ4nS39E3C_WpVeTf9GZnQW0y5NlQ4/s320/walnut+cake.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5660280331465722162" /></a> <br />With a bottle of Falanghina and a couple of glasses of red the bill came to £136 for 4 of us and a baby (my grandson!) who tucked heartily into his own plate of pasta. That included service for which, they make a point of stressing, they don't charge. You could easily spend that much in Jamie’s Italian and eat half as well.<br /><br />This week they have a pig week which I’m sorry to be missing. Follow their tweets @SamZucca to find out what else they have on.<br /><br />* Oh, and a footnote. Bermondsey Street, which is an up and coming London food destination (it's not far from Maltby street market) also houses the excellent <a href="http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/52/1597113/restaurant/Bermondsey/Jose-London">José </a>tapas bar so you could call in there for a sherry first. José's own restaurant, Pizarro, opens down the road next month.Fiona Becketthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12970779962455905201noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4917691940652886496.post-43174200684690086802011-10-02T07:30:00.006+01:002011-10-02T09:32:36.014+01:00Nigel Slater's seasalt chocolate snaps<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1FzCYvXBhzJwJy4zWvNnCdzUqfXSQ2UqhW2Pl6qZKDrV56hrbiN95xPGYy46V1IZoPZcYwI2KSfyZE5QDw8CYd0m8xuW0rNymEXSbSSP8jM-Upa2Y4CHXM7V2eGEdM4iTzAX8Vxle3Ok/s1600/seasalt+chocolate+snaps.tiff"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 188px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1FzCYvXBhzJwJy4zWvNnCdzUqfXSQ2UqhW2Pl6qZKDrV56hrbiN95xPGYy46V1IZoPZcYwI2KSfyZE5QDw8CYd0m8xuW0rNymEXSbSSP8jM-Upa2Y4CHXM7V2eGEdM4iTzAX8Vxle3Ok/s320/seasalt+chocolate+snaps.tiff" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5658782747448625954" /></a><br />One of the things I like to do when I'm unwell (nothing serious, just a heavy cold) is catch up with all the food programmes I've missed on iPlayer. I didn't even realise Nigel Slater had a <a href="http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b01541yc">new series</a> but I've just been watching him make some incredibly pretty chocolate discs topped with caramelised almonds, chopped pistachios, crushed crystallised rose petals and rubbed flakes of seasalt. Like all Nigel's recipes it's an inspired combination of ingredients and incredibly easy. <br /><br />It would make a show stopping end to a dinner party, with perhaps a glass of off-dry pink sparkling wine (champagne is too dry) or - admittedly slightly kitsch - a glass of very cold pink port. You can find the recipe <a href="http://www.bbc.co.uk/food/recipes/sea_salt_chocolate_snaps_81237">here</a>. <br /><br />Although I don't think Nigel is a TV natural like (unexpectedly) Simon Hopkinson he always makes food I want to eat and the idea of basing a series on complementary tastes and flavours is a great one. (The first episode was on sweet and sour, this one on surf and turf (though not quite sure how chocolate fits into that) and the next spicy and cool. There must be a book in this.Fiona Becketthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12970779962455905201noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4917691940652886496.post-87478937608742497602011-09-27T21:07:00.006+01:002011-09-27T22:37:08.030+01:004 more blogs<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZBoFQbszGxbSTz9EMQocbWfCLSV3mluTcaUCi3wx1j7a9_2qLf-30__mD_FXYqSyLcboCQrllOizEJPzoQgopR3t7ySCAWIqXsgWtO4nvH808nOElPST9ccdq4M7ixl23LPt3v69xysw/s1600/Love+and+olive+oil.tiff"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 188px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZBoFQbszGxbSTz9EMQocbWfCLSV3mluTcaUCi3wx1j7a9_2qLf-30__mD_FXYqSyLcboCQrllOizEJPzoQgopR3t7ySCAWIqXsgWtO4nvH808nOElPST9ccdq4M7ixl23LPt3v69xysw/s320/Love+and+olive+oil.tiff" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5657146086471856610" /></a> It's been a bumper month for new blog discoveries so I'm having difficulty restricting myself to four.<br /><br />I'll cheat and count French cookery writer <a href="http://www.chocolatebytrish.com/news">Trish Deseine's</a> as one when in fact she has two. And she's not French, she's Irish but she was married to a Frenchman and she's huge in France. Big as Nigella, a well-worn comparison for which she probably won't thank me. What I particularly like about her though - and I met her this summer - is that she doesn't take herself at all seriously and writes funny self-deprecating posts like <a href="http://www.chocolatebytrish.com/news/ham-salad">this one</a> about what she has in her shopping basket. She also has this beautiful tumblr blog <a href="http://feed2.tumblr.com/">here</a>.<br /><br />Then there's <a href="http://letsdoalazysunday.blogspot.com/">Lazy Sunday</a> - one of those scrumptious photo-led blogs I'm so jealous of created by food photographer Carole Fitzgerald. Can't remember how I came across this one - think it was through Twitter where most of my discoveries seem to take place these days. Not much in the way of text just lovely, lovely photos. <br /><br />Next, <a href="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/">Food and Think</a>, the food section of the Smithsonian website. Full of stimulating, erudite writing of a kind that the Americans seem to be much better than us these days. Check out <a href="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/2011/09/meet-anthropomorphized-foods-artist-terry-border/">this piece </a>on 'anthropomorphized' food artist Terry Border or this off-the-wall one on <a href="http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/2011/09/five-funky-ways-with-a-peanut-butter-sandwich/">Five Funky Ways with a Peanut Butter Sandwich </a><br /><br />And finally, <a href="http://www.loveandoliveoil.com/">Love & Olive Oil</a> (above), another beautiful blog I discovered when its author, Lindsay, commented on my last post on blogging and family meals. Terrific pix and recipes like this decadent <a href="http://www.loveandoliveoil.com/2011/09/brownie-pie.html">brownie pie</a>. Brownie <span style="font-style:italic;">pie</span> - now why didn't I think of that?Fiona Becketthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12970779962455905201noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4917691940652886496.post-1972361949582856972011-09-23T08:27:00.013+01:002011-09-23T10:28:56.115+01:00Do you cook for your family or your blog?<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikcOGTox16T_bhll0kqdxztEWattu84RwZ-mvS_A7xAsxjLX0enO0wTiGV5GxLFTdPyMn7K7m79pmD5-1Ws_qmOrp3QB8JNMQP_Wb8TdgitqQcNXLT-OI_KxJZ5YGNfIpl4WJa94aAfeI/s1600/olive+spaghetti+%25281%2529.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 215px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikcOGTox16T_bhll0kqdxztEWattu84RwZ-mvS_A7xAsxjLX0enO0wTiGV5GxLFTdPyMn7K7m79pmD5-1Ws_qmOrp3QB8JNMQP_Wb8TdgitqQcNXLT-OI_KxJZ5YGNfIpl4WJa94aAfeI/s320/olive+spaghetti+%25281%2529.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5655457823978078066" /></a><br />The arguments about whether or not you should take pictures or notes in a restaurant have been well rehearsed but what about when you eat at home? Should you hold the entire meal up while you style a plate and snap away or should you end up - as I often do (above) - snatching a blurry low light image of your dinner?<br /><br />If anything it’s a bigger problem because it happens more regularly. My husband has got well used to the routine, sighing wearily as I plate up “I suppose you want to take a picture of that”. <br /><br />And it’s getting more of a dilemma as the standard of photography goes up. The best blogs, many of which I’ve documented, have photography that wouldn’t look out of place in a glossy magazine and having seen Jaden of <a href="http://steamykitchen.com/recipes">Steamy Kitchen</a> and Béatrice of <a href="http://www.latartinegourmande.com/">La Tartine Gourmande</a> in action at <a href="http://www.foodbloggerconnect.com/">Food Blogger Connect</a>, probably takes as long to set up. So do you cook, like a professional photographer for the shoot, and expect your nearest and dearest to eat the leftovers? Or, God forbid, cook two meals?<br /><br />And what about the equipment? What used to be a sideline for many of us becomes an expensive hobby as you invest in the latest flashy digital camera - or two (one for your 'studio' shoots and a pocket sized one for restaurants and food on the go)?<br /><br />I guess it depends how ambitious you are for your blog and where you see it taking you. If you’re angling for a new career in food writing and photography you’re going to have to behave like a pro with the ensuing waste that involves. I’ve been on shoots where whole meals are discarded in the bin, something I can never quite get used to. <br /><br />But what about the rest of us with day jobs and partners and families to feed? Are we consigned to a nether world of mediocrity because our photography isn’t up to scratch? <br /><br />I’d love to hear your views but here's one (heretical) suggestion of my own. Which is to use one of the many wizzy camera apps on your phone to create special effects - or even, if you have a Mac, play around with iphoto as I've done to the rather grotty shot above. OK it’s not going to give your readers the clearest idea of the masterpiece you’ve created but at least it looks a bit edgy. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgajQxTpYeWh19flpoZ_zqF76Borq_OKyXUcCmnsR3DMwspqA9RtbHKJ175kTGEb8wwITTk3fcsQnkeblj70IwQAW3W3tEuRU5ZnSldXDcjNX0OLihyphenhyphen5V-QbUDC6-8OS2dujANZk8zEllY/s1600/olive+spaghetti+2.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 215px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgajQxTpYeWh19flpoZ_zqF76Borq_OKyXUcCmnsR3DMwspqA9RtbHKJ175kTGEb8wwITTk3fcsQnkeblj70IwQAW3W3tEuRU5ZnSldXDcjNX0OLihyphenhyphen5V-QbUDC6-8OS2dujANZk8zEllY/s320/olive+spaghetti+2.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5655458516285541666" /></a><br />What do you think? (Not of my photos, obviously - at least I'd rather you didn't tell me - but about the whole issue!)Fiona Becketthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12970779962455905201noreply@blogger.com31tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4917691940652886496.post-79060412109984105982011-09-12T12:05:00.013+01:002011-09-12T14:31:31.943+01:00Six (actually about 10) recipes to make from Comfort and Spice<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip6XHqJAEADA2E4_XxtOdPryscCpJqiQKHBJtlng35oo1_gnJPtlJD9g-U89jQfQzsznWv01rDgUZQgTK1SYVQ4WhFGZIhlmeleWxRB0B4ZH0XOi373sd0ijJ0VUOMjx3IUNMt015ZDzo/s1600/niamh+cover.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 230px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip6XHqJAEADA2E4_XxtOdPryscCpJqiQKHBJtlng35oo1_gnJPtlJD9g-U89jQfQzsznWv01rDgUZQgTK1SYVQ4WhFGZIhlmeleWxRB0B4ZH0XOi373sd0ijJ0VUOMjx3IUNMt015ZDzo/s320/niamh+cover.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5651432523335731250" /></a><br />Publishers have odd ideas sometimes. What possessed Quadrille to call Niamh* Shields first book Comfort & Spice instead of <a href="http://eatlikeagirl.com/">Eat Like a Girl</a>, the title of her hugely popular blog, I can’t imagine. It sounds like a Christmas baking book. Maybe the idea was it would appeal more to the American market? And perhaps they’re right but it in no way conjures up the discursive, leftfield tone of Niamh’s writing (you can actually <span style="font-style:italic;">hear</span> her talking to you) or her wide-ranging choice of recipes.<br /><br />What I like best about it, I must confess, are the small tips and ingredients made from scratch which, only someone as unashamedly greedy as Niamh - and I say this in the nicest possible way - would have come up with. I can’t wait to make a batch of <span style="font-weight:bold;">ham salt, harissa croutons, rosepetal butter</span> and <span style="font-weight:bold;">passionfruit and lime curd</span> (1) (All short recipes so I’m counting these as one choice.)<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfL1wvrNzyqS5wUC3pQOHFfMelMB5R_7P-I2QYpQHEIwplZVmHE2BTR0n9uf8mGoFidoEYjifR5cHPY5uBfGejcbH-8yxmmimY4gcmbShZp2UEUmSU1e0-moxISQ4k00NKiVCX5uT3SY4/s1600/rosepetal+butter+3.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 214px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfL1wvrNzyqS5wUC3pQOHFfMelMB5R_7P-I2QYpQHEIwplZVmHE2BTR0n9uf8mGoFidoEYjifR5cHPY5uBfGejcbH-8yxmmimY4gcmbShZp2UEUmSU1e0-moxISQ4k00NKiVCX5uT3SY4/s320/rosepetal+butter+3.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5651435126894314114" /></a><br />Probably the best section overall is the Eight Great Big Dinners . . . and what to do with the leftovers. The idea of making sausage roll style <span style="font-weight:bold;">Lamb and smoky aubergine rolls</span> (2) with leftover shoulder of lamb is genius and you should definitely try her signature <span style="font-weight:bold;">two and six-hour pork belly</span> (3) which can be turned into some wicked-sounding pork belly dumplings. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRuyJidkCXQkK3-d-_d3cdn1TE9Srgd9xl-bCa8KLgRgCTNTFh_3gUWOSlr7PdkIguFe_fw1hXKXWo9UnmEsEX3FERj-bLheyQGmeZTtU4QH9JBFlTGNd0OzPvpMLGhkxyh_vRPRZoO9Q/s1600/2+hour+Belly+Pork+2.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 214px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRuyJidkCXQkK3-d-_d3cdn1TE9Srgd9xl-bCa8KLgRgCTNTFh_3gUWOSlr7PdkIguFe_fw1hXKXWo9UnmEsEX3FERj-bLheyQGmeZTtU4QH9JBFlTGNd0OzPvpMLGhkxyh_vRPRZoO9Q/s320/2+hour+Belly+Pork+2.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5651435634333666130" /></a><br />There are also some excellent tips for getting your crackling crisp which I shan’t pass on otherwise you might not buy the book . . .<br /><br />Niamh’s Irish roots are evident in number of recipes out of which I’d pick the <span style="font-weight:bold;">smoked salmon with potato pancakes and cucumber relish</span> (4) using <a href="http://www.frankhederman.com/">Frank Hederman</a> smoked salmon, as she recommends, if you can get hold of it. She says she’s been making the pancakes since she was at school so they should be good.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaGcV4ePzByY1alTr8VEeiHygfaHl6cqkpZhWUEGit6vRC6NPRnWxPr2827k57kjgKP6yPcwHwUNu0rENNGMmWBTYROfSy9lF2rvRlrM8MqGQwYOKPDMX3hnNEW9C4x1lAA448O2YQPus/s1600/smoked+salmon+pancakes.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 214px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaGcV4ePzByY1alTr8VEeiHygfaHl6cqkpZhWUEGit6vRC6NPRnWxPr2827k57kjgKP6yPcwHwUNu0rENNGMmWBTYROfSy9lF2rvRlrM8MqGQwYOKPDMX3hnNEW9C4x1lAA448O2YQPus/s320/smoked+salmon+pancakes.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5651433690674782882" /></a><br />I suspect the same is true of her simply named <span style="font-weight:bold;">Prawn Curry</span> (5) which she says all her friends now make - the downside of being generous with your recipes. It includes cloves, an interesting touch. Maybe that’s the ‘spice’ of the title’<br /><br />As well as the butter I’ve mentioned, there are a number of recipes for home-made cheese including <span style="font-weight:bold;">homemade paneer </span>(6) which you could use to make her Mutter Paneer. What’s great about this book is how encouraging Niamh is. She almost knows you read a recipe, wondering if it will work then goes on to reassure you how easy it is.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Chicken and chorizo pie</span> (er, 7. I was only supposed to pick six recipes, but never mind) is a winner too. In fact Niamh has obviously got a big thing going about chorizo which appears in rather too many recipes - my one small niggle with the book, apart from its title. But like the rest of this series it has immense charm as does its author. It would be a very good friend in the kitchen.<br /><br />*Niamh is pronounced neev in Gaelic not nee-am-huh. Just in case you wondered.<br /><br /><span style="font-style:italic;">Photos are from ‘Comfort and Spice’ by Niamh Shields, the fourth book in the New Voices in Food series, published by Quadrille (£14.99, paperback) Photography (C) Georgia Glynn Smith</span>Fiona Becketthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12970779962455905201noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4917691940652886496.post-81954339716686353962011-09-09T17:19:00.010+01:002011-09-10T07:28:20.761+01:00What's hot at the London Restaurant Festival<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiChbK1o-WV8c-c5cuE2ngFHUXi3_Yb4XZal8g-OahRcftGwIaW2eszGNWtTnXiSnrE4EEq1-niKd9FvtJc0PRkneT8LquOi21QYXNZfbbOjYeCrp28lQXE7aRr7aptHVCXx9lH7yMo57E/s1600/Minotaur.tiff"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 188px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiChbK1o-WV8c-c5cuE2ngFHUXi3_Yb4XZal8g-OahRcftGwIaW2eszGNWtTnXiSnrE4EEq1-niKd9FvtJc0PRkneT8LquOi21QYXNZfbbOjYeCrp28lQXE7aRr7aptHVCXx9lH7yMo57E/s320/Minotaur.tiff" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5650412412714432098" /></a><br />The other night I went to a dinner at Nuno Mendes' <a href="http://www.theloftproject.co.uk/">Loft Project</a> to publicise the <a href="http://www.londonrestaurantfestival.com/">London Restaurant Festival</a> which opens in just over three weeks now. Annoyingly I'm not going to be here the first week (on a wine trip to Spain so don't expect you to feel much sympathy) but I am around for what sounds like the most intriguing event - unless you happen to fancy eating your dinner suspended <a href="http://www.londonrestaurantfestival.com/2011/05/22/pop-up-in-the-sky/">half a mile above London</a>.<br /><br />It's a pop-up (what else?) <a href="http://www.theminotaur.co.uk/register/">'dining experience'</a> organised by a German company called Pret a Diner which will take place in the Old Vic Tunnels which will be featuring installations from a number of artists curated by gallery owner <a href="http://www.lazinc.com/">Steve Lazarides</a> based on the Greek legend of the <a href="http://www.theminotaur.co.uk/exhibition/">Minotaur</a>.<br /><br />The three chefs involved are Nuno himself, who also owns Viajante, Matthias Schmidt of <a href="http://www.koflerkompanie.com/en/restaurants_villamerton.html">Villa Merton</a> in Frankfurt and Juan Amador of <a href="http://www.amador.ag/amador_restaurant/">Amador</a> in Mannheim. Tickets will go on sale tomorrow, priced £75 for three courses - not exactly cheap but cheaper than Thomas Keller's £250 French Laundry <a href="http://www.harrods.com/content/visiting-the-store/news/the-french-laundry-pop-up-restaurant-at-harrods/">pop-up</a> at Harrods. There will be two sittings a day at 7pm and 9pm from the 10th-25th of October. We don't see much in the way of German chefs over here which makes it good opportunity to find out what's going on over there.<br /><br />Otherwise there are now some 700 restaurants offering Festival menus at four different price bands (£10, £15, £20 and £25) which you can find if you click on <a href="http://www.bookatable.com/uk/offers/london-restaurant-festival">Book Table</a>. (I only tell you this because I faffed around the site for 10 minutes trying to find out who was offering what. Even then you could do with a bit more info about what you get for your festival deal. <a href="http://www.thehawksmoor.com/">Hawksmoor Seven Dials</a> which I am shamelessly plugging because it's my son Will's restaurant is offering 2 'bridging drinks' (see their cocktail menu) and a mini chilli cheese dog or one bridging drink and a mini lobster roll, for instance.)<br /><br />There are also going to be three <a href="http://www.londonrestaurantfestival.com/2011/05/22/suppliers-markets/">Suppliers' Markets</a> involving chefs' suppliers at Paddington (30th September), Waterloo (7th October) and Liverpool Street Station (14th October), an <a href="http://www.londonrestaurantfestival.com/2011/05/22/eat-film/">Eat Film</a> series of screenings, signings and suppers and the annual LRF awards which are given for nicely quirky qualities such as 'bravery', 'passion' and 'fun'.<br /><br />All in all a good 10 days to be in London.Fiona Becketthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12970779962455905201noreply@blogger.com0