Saturday, March 6, 2010
Return of the rissole?
Two of the meals I had out this week included what passed for a rissole. Lunch at Riverstation in Bristol had some made out of lambs’ shoulder served with mash (and a taster course of tongue and parsley rissoles slipped to us by the chef Tim who knew my dining companion, his cheese supplier).
The other was at Bistrot Bruno in Clerkenwell in London where a ‘revised Lyonnaise salad’ (below) included delicious little deep fried fingers of shredded ham.
Of course in these recessionary times making rissoles (usually from leftover meat) makes abundant sense only it’s interesting that neither chef uses the ‘R’ word. Can’t blame them really. It does conjure up memories of tough, tasteless little cylinders made from overcooked grey meat, minced and underseasoned. Croquetas, Spain’s contribution to the world of deep-fried leftovers are so much more sexy. Even croquettes (which is what the Riverstation called theirs) sound better.
The style of cooking that lends itself particularly well to rissole treatment is slow roasting or braising which gives meat a delectable fall-apart texture without any loss of flavour. Given the fashion for all things retro at the moment I hope we’ll see more.
Have you ever made rissoles? Would you eat them in a restaurant?