Wednesday, July 27, 2011
The Ledbury lunch: possibly the best bargain in London
Now The Ledbury is not a find, it's a much-heralded restaurant (2 Michelin stars, no. 34 and the highest new entry in the World's top 50 restaurants) that has been around for a while. And this week wasn't the first time I've been there. But if there's a better under £30 lunch than Brett Graham's in London currently I've yet to discover it.
I was invited there by Wines of Germany as the restaurant is supporting their Riesling Week so we did stray slightly off-piste but our starter and dessert came from the set price menu
First this stunningly beautiful Asian-style dish of flame grilled mackerel with avocado, radishes and shiso (above) with a crisp Saar riesling
Then a small(ish) portion of unbelievably porky pork jowl from the tasting menu roasted with liquorice with a crisp shard of perfect crackling. That came with a glass of Pinot Noir (Spätburgunder) from Baden.
Followed by an unheralded main course of loin and shoulder of lamb with green tomato juice and aubergine glazed with black sugar and garlic, just so, I suspect, that we could try one of the other wines that sommelier Luke Robertson is particularly excited about at the moment the Triennes Les Aureliens, a Cabernet Syrah blend from Provence. Lamb is always great with aubergine - and Cabernet, for that matter. This was sublime.
And finally a pretty-as-a-picture summery dessert of whipped ewe's milk with strawberries, blueberries, lemon verbena mergines and beignets with which we drank a glorious glass of sweet riesling about which I'll be writing more on my main site next week. (My match of the week, I predict, already and it's only Wednesday.)
The set weekday lunch is £27.50 for two courses, £33.50 for 3 - Sunday lunch is £40 but that's still a fantastic bargain. Food this good costs twice as much in Paris.
The Ledbury is the perfect place to take someone for a special occasion or even to treat yourself from time to time. My fellow blogger Helen Graves of Food Stories mentioned that she goes there every three months. I think I should be doing the same.
PS Don't whatever you do skip the bread rolls out of a misplaced concern that they might spoil your appetite. They're a work of art in themselves. Warm bacon brioche rolls in the centre, crystal malt on the right. I couldn't make up my mind which I liked best so had to have both. As you would.