It's funny how things go in and out of fashion. There was a time back in the 80s (I think) when every dish seemed to incorporate pink peppercorns. Then a period, which arguably extends to the present day, when nobody would be seen dead with them. I bought some last summer in the market in Nice and promptly forgot about them 'til I rediscovered them the other day and started using them. On fish, in salads and on fresh young goats' cheese. And you know what? They're delicious.
They don't have the heat of black pepper or the spiciness of white which is not surprising when you find out they're not actually a peppercorn at all but a berry. They come from a species of tree called Schinus Terebinthifolius which grows mainly in Réunion, Mauritius and Brazil (or so I discover from the excellent Pepper: the spice that changed the world by Christine McFadden). The French, who are rather keener on them than we are, refer to them as baies roses.
McFadden also recommends using them in sweet dishes like jellies, biscuits and cakes, and gives a splendidly kitsch recipe for Pink Pepper Blondies which might be worth making a mental note of for Valentine's Day next year. I can also imagine them being good in shortbread . . .
Do you - would you - ever use pink peppercorns and if so for what?
I don't think I have ever used pink pepper, but I have (and still do) use green peppercorns in brine for lovely 1980s style cream sauces to serve with pork fillet or steak.
ReplyDeleteStill as yum as it ever was :)
Ooo, yes. GREEN peppercorns. I haven't thought about them for an age. And you're right the ones in tins are especially good. Shall have to track some down.
ReplyDeleteI seem to recall a scare story about false pink peppercorns, which were toxic?
ReplyDeleteCan't abide green peppercorns - distinct whiff of the medicinal in my lexicon.
You've got a point. Thanks for the reminder - I just put them in the cure for the trout I was given: http://twitpic.com/15bz6v Might of got carried away with the amount of peppercorns though.....
ReplyDeleteI keep them for garnishing canapes normally.
Never used pink peppercorns, not seen them around even, but as others have mentioned have used the green frequently, i.e. green peppercorn sauce. I had no idea it was an 80's thing. And wow not a mention of alcohol Fiona, I am impressed :)
ReplyDeletelocal lass: Christine McFadden addresses this in her book. She says there was a scare but it's not a problem if you don't use an excessive amount (nb James tho' tho' that cure looks fabulous!)
ReplyDeleteAnd don't worry, Luigi, I'll be back to the subject of alcohol shortly - possibly even later today!
Great post! I just got some organic pink peppercorns from Sustainable Sourcing https://secure.sustainablesourcing.com and I have been using them in recipes off their site. I love them and think they deserve a revival!
ReplyDeleteIt's funny you should mention pink peppercorns, I've spotted them a couple of times recently and totally agree they're long overdue a revival. They're brilliant for both flavour and garnish. Christine MacFadden's Pepper book is a great source on pepper, must revisit that too :)
ReplyDeleteThanks for the tip-off about the Sustainable Sourcing site Anderburf. Looks a good one. And I think you're right, Sig, they are beginning to pop up here and there.
ReplyDeleteI never ate so many pink peppercorns as when I was in Helsinki. They love them up there!
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