Tuesday, January 19, 2010
Why chefs love Barkham Blue
You can hardly go into a restaurant these days without spotting Barkham Blue on the menu. Every chef seems to be obsessed with it and I've been wondering why.
It's not that it's not good - it's very tasty. More like a Gorgonzola Dolce with a creamier texture than a Stilton and in the best examples I've tasted, an almost mushroomy flavour like a Brie. Maybe that's the key. Although it's flavourful it's actually quite mild and buttery and doesn't deliver that sucker punch you can get from a Roquefort. I've even drunk red wine with it successfully which is normally pretty difficult with a blue
It's made, rather engagingly, by a Berkshire company called Two Hoots cheeses and has picked up a whole raft of awards including British Cheese Awards Supreme Champion in 2008.
Chefs seem to be mainly putting it into salads and featuring it on their all-British cheeseboards. I personally think Stichelton is a better cheese but it's a confusing concept. People, I imagine, just think that chefs can't spell Stilton (which is perfectly possible ;-)) but Barkham Blue is really easy to remember. And cheese, particularly blue, does seem to be subject to fashion. It was Gorgonzola for a while, then Cashel Blue. This year seems to be Barkham Blue's.
Have you tried Barkham Blue and if so how do you rate it? And what's your favourite blue?
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It was Blacksticks Blue (the whole one is much softer & moister than the cut portions sold in supermarkets) for me before I discovered Birdwood's Blue Heaven. They've also started a new blue cheese (no name at the moment) which is a serious strength blue cheese. Used it for canape sized cheesecakes at Christmas. Rather addictive.
ReplyDeleteI do like Barkham blue... but my two favourite blues are Stichelton and Oxford Blue. Just love them!
ReplyDeleteYou mention the sucker punch of roquefort and I agree... I love it but can't eat much of it as it is. But I do love it for cooking - whether it's in risottos or steak butters or quiches or cheesey potato bakes. Mm!
I'll have to look out for that, James. Funnily enough I just discovered a Blacksticks White which is stocked by the Co-op. Also a blue just not coloured like the original one.
ReplyDeleteI haven't tried Oxford Blue for a while Kavey but remember liking it. As I do Dorset Blue Vinney which we get in our local deli. And you're right Roquefort is fine if you have it with something. It's just a bit full-on if you nibble it on its own.
I am biased but I love Cropwell Bishop Stilton. Had a huge half ring in for Christmas which was excellent. I then bought some cheapo Stilton from Tesco (I know I shouldn't) to add to soup, hubby tucked in thinking I had found some more CB at back of fridge - he was not impressed. I'll never compromise on quality again, even for soup.
ReplyDeleteCropwell Stilton is a fantastic cheese but I'm not sure I'd cook with it unless I had some lying around uneaten (unlikely!) Have just blogged on my cheese blog about a cheese called Blacksticks White - oddly a blue - which I think would lend itself well to soup and quiches. http://bit.ly/5fWwWy Maybe CB for a salad tho'
ReplyDeleteInteresting, haven't come across this yet but then am a staunch Stichelton fan :-)
ReplyDeleteSounds lovely, have never tried this cheese. But as you say, yes I have seen it appearing. Interesting. Next time I think curiousity will take the better of me, but im not sure about enjoying it with red wine. I am not so sophisticated. :)
ReplyDeleteI think most people would think you could drink red wine with blue cheese actually Luigi. It's only obsessives like me who think it's an issue (sweet wine being a much more reliable pairing IMO!)
ReplyDeleteI was looking at Barkham blue in a cheese book earlier and thinking I must get some to try soon! My favourite blue is Cambazola, I can't be left alone with it as mysteriously vanishes....
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