Tuesday, January 19, 2010

Why chefs love Barkham Blue


You can hardly go into a restaurant these days without spotting Barkham Blue on the menu. Every chef seems to be obsessed with it and I've been wondering why.

It's not that it's not good - it's very tasty. More like a Gorgonzola Dolce with a creamier texture than a Stilton and in the best examples I've tasted, an almost mushroomy flavour like a Brie. Maybe that's the key. Although it's flavourful it's actually quite mild and buttery and doesn't deliver that sucker punch you can get from a Roquefort. I've even drunk red wine with it successfully which is normally pretty difficult with a blue

It's made, rather engagingly, by a Berkshire company called Two Hoots cheeses and has picked up a whole raft of awards including British Cheese Awards Supreme Champion in 2008.

Chefs seem to be mainly putting it into salads and featuring it on their all-British cheeseboards. I personally think Stichelton is a better cheese but it's a confusing concept. People, I imagine, just think that chefs can't spell Stilton (which is perfectly possible ;-)) but Barkham Blue is really easy to remember. And cheese, particularly blue, does seem to be subject to fashion. It was Gorgonzola for a while, then Cashel Blue. This year seems to be Barkham Blue's.

Have you tried Barkham Blue and if so how do you rate it? And what's your favourite blue?

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9 comments:

  1. It was Blacksticks Blue (the whole one is much softer & moister than the cut portions sold in supermarkets) for me before I discovered Birdwood's Blue Heaven. They've also started a new blue cheese (no name at the moment) which is a serious strength blue cheese. Used it for canape sized cheesecakes at Christmas. Rather addictive.

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  2. I do like Barkham blue... but my two favourite blues are Stichelton and Oxford Blue. Just love them!

    You mention the sucker punch of roquefort and I agree... I love it but can't eat much of it as it is. But I do love it for cooking - whether it's in risottos or steak butters or quiches or cheesey potato bakes. Mm!

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  3. I'll have to look out for that, James. Funnily enough I just discovered a Blacksticks White which is stocked by the Co-op. Also a blue just not coloured like the original one.

    I haven't tried Oxford Blue for a while Kavey but remember liking it. As I do Dorset Blue Vinney which we get in our local deli. And you're right Roquefort is fine if you have it with something. It's just a bit full-on if you nibble it on its own.

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  4. I am biased but I love Cropwell Bishop Stilton. Had a huge half ring in for Christmas which was excellent. I then bought some cheapo Stilton from Tesco (I know I shouldn't) to add to soup, hubby tucked in thinking I had found some more CB at back of fridge - he was not impressed. I'll never compromise on quality again, even for soup.

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  5. Cropwell Stilton is a fantastic cheese but I'm not sure I'd cook with it unless I had some lying around uneaten (unlikely!) Have just blogged on my cheese blog about a cheese called Blacksticks White - oddly a blue - which I think would lend itself well to soup and quiches. http://bit.ly/5fWwWy Maybe CB for a salad tho'

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  6. Interesting, haven't come across this yet but then am a staunch Stichelton fan :-)

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  7. Sounds lovely, have never tried this cheese. But as you say, yes I have seen it appearing. Interesting. Next time I think curiousity will take the better of me, but im not sure about enjoying it with red wine. I am not so sophisticated. :)

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  8. I think most people would think you could drink red wine with blue cheese actually Luigi. It's only obsessives like me who think it's an issue (sweet wine being a much more reliable pairing IMO!)

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  9. I was looking at Barkham blue in a cheese book earlier and thinking I must get some to try soon! My favourite blue is Cambazola, I can't be left alone with it as mysteriously vanishes....

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